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Olympic white jazz with a difference


Geek99

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For what it’s worth, I had a bass refinished from natural wood to Olympic White. Not knowing any better I bought a white undercoat paint. Top coat paint was definitely Olympic White - I looked quite the plonker standing with my Fender in the middle of Halfords to get the right colour. After spraying, the bass came close to pearl white. I asked the guy doing it what the story was, he said I would have needed grey or possibly an orange undercoat. Wish I’d had that conversation before I bought the paint.

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I've rough sanded it and flashed some white spirit over it to see the flaws more clearly. I have got rid of some imperfections in the original state, but I have realised just how open-pored the paulownia is. There is only so much good I can do with sanding. Lesson learned.

Sadly the idiot ebay seller of the primer didn't answer the phone, and did not respond to ebay messages and has sent the primer anyway, so I have to use it. I did ask if grey would work better but he didn't bother reading.

I'm going to fine sand, and then grain fill as best I can with what I have left and then put cellulose primer on and flat it to try and even things out texture wise.

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so I got impatient. Its pretty much sanded flat with all traces of transwhite gone. Its smoother and some of the deficiencies are fixed. 

I used the olympic white cellulose to repaint my scratched phone cover (nice finish, dried quickly) and a quick patch on the wood where the neck plate goes, to see how it covers grain, and how smooth it got.  NOt seen it dried yet, will report

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  • 2 weeks later...

final grain fill done, which filled in some scratches I had not previously noticed.

Sanding done. Waiting for a nice windless day to paint primer on. 

 

I did a test stripe of a scrap of wood, neat cellulose, side by side with the primer plus cellulose. The latter looked better and coverge was noticeably better, although as @Gareth Hughes says, it is very white.I''m going to put two coats of primer on and see whats shines through.

 

 

 

 

 

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so, I have put cellulose primer on and then some more and the open grained nature of pawlonia is still showing through, I know that this means I didnt grain fill it enough. 

I'm going to let it dry thoroughly and then use the remainder of the grain filler in a thick mix to fill in the worst bits (it'll show up better on white primer than on wood) and fill in a few dings I didnt notice before. Then if I flat down the primer plus grain fills, it should be at least a bit flatter. 

I'm thoroughly ticked off with pawlownia. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

ok - an update. I ran out of white primer  and ordered some grey @Gareth Hughes. However many trenches, bangs and scrapes I fix, there are always more, grain filler doesn't touch them. I will never buy paulownia again. 

The grey made a good job of covering and I have now decided to top coat and live with it (the front isnt too bad and I am confident that I can overfill with paint and flat down) . I had sprayed a test swipe of olympic white on white primer and it was a bit pearly as noted above. I've now done a quick mist coat all over the grey and am pleasantly surprised (a first for this endless viking saga of a build) that it looks a very mellow white.

 

picture added @Gareth Hughes

Should go nicely with the celluloid brown tort  that I  have waiting. @vinorange

8DA9E7F1-9548-457C-B0C1-7A8FCF8B7255.jpeg

Edited by Geek99
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  • 2 weeks later...

so I got a nice white finish all over, aside from a few minor dinks that just won't fill . 

I bought some cellulose clear varnish, which has charmingly split the white paint in  places. 

 

I think the phrase I have in mind rhymes with "clucking bell"

I thnk my xmas list is going to feature a ready sprayed sunburst body in nitro, courtesy of Brandoni

 

Edited by Geek99
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  • 3 weeks later...

So

the neck is on

bridge on

earthing strip in 62 style

straplocks

MOP block markers 

 

Tomorrow:

earthing in cavities 

Pickups

strings

control plate although I have no knobs 

dry fitting of Tort celluloid plate and tug bar

 

ive given up on the body, it’s as good as it was going to get. It looks okay from the front and will relic quickly as there is minimal varnish and the nitro paint marks and scrapes easily, more so given  careless handling... and who on earth would be careless in handling it?😎

 

 

Edited by Geek99
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Getting there ....

The plate still has film on it 

I need to connect pup to pot

need tug bar fitted

 

i still need to get concentric knobs from somewhere 

BEFORE any one points it out 

1. I know the first position block is slightly wonky

2. I know stack knobs didn’t have blocks and so are not strictly accurate 

 

06C2C047-016D-42C9-A5EF-0EE405D09876.jpeg

09E6C97D-D60A-480A-BEE8-1B3D9BA6B2BA.jpeg

79E8DD12-0B8A-4785-8133-C528514EBD54.jpeg

Edited by Geek99
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

This is a moment - I for the first time have achieved genuine mojo. I had a free lunchtime so had a quick noodle through my zoom and noticed what I thought were visible grain undulations in my otherwise poor nitro paint job 

 

In fact they were genuine lacquer crazing, lots of it.😎

Now I rub in some shoe polish ... 

Edited by Geek99
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