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Vintage Instruments: Quality or Psychosomatics?


Frank Blank

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32 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:

Ah, hello Mr. Rees Mogg! I had no idea you were a BCer..?

What? No, I'm Disgraced Dr Liam Fox, the Idiot Charlatan. And I'm also David Davis, the most incompetent man on the planet, while being the smuggest man on the planet. Pip Pip!

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4 hours ago, Bluewine said:

HB also has Thunderbird knock off with an active PU.

I wonder how it stacks up against what I considered those expensive Epiphone Thunderbirds.

Which ones, the new vintages.

I got to a play a gibson thunderbird (2012 I think) the other day, which is something I always wanted. But I honestly couldn't tell the difference between it and my epiphone pro iv, looked the same, sounded the same, played the same (although to be fair, it didn't have the big chip in the headstock I did to mine last week carrying it around the house)!

SO I guess that makes it the cheap epiphone (or the expensive gibson).

Would sill like one of those white vintages that are out soon though.

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46 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

an' kam on Sid, you can do better than that?!

 

18 minutes ago, discreet said:

He Sphinx he's being clever.

...I'll get me loincloth.

 

7 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

Are you guys being Cleopatranising...?

 

I'm surrounded by pyramidiots. 

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8 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Actually the low B should be the least of your worries as, it will be the lowest tension string on your bass. 

 

Thank you! :)

You hear so many wrong advice like "oh, watch that neck with the extra tension if you tune BEAD rather than EADG" etc... when you typically get quite noticeable lower tension. That, despite so many threads complaining about flabby B strings. You'd think people put 1+1 together ;)

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16 hours ago, Bluewine said:

I'm just not sure.

Production & quality control have come a long way since the 70s. The days where made in China or Korea automatically meant crap are pretty much over.

Not that I would by one but I've heard credible musicians rave about Harley Benton. Apparently you can by a perfectly good playable Jazz Bass for $149.00.

HB copy of a Fender Vintage Seriies Jazz. Looks pretty sweet to me.

Blue

FB_IMG_1515119906709.jpg

FB_IMG_1515120317590.jpg

 

I haven't had the chance to try a Harley Benton but I have also heard good things. I owned a J&D in surf green that looked identical to the bottom picture you posted (many people have compared hB with J&D suggesting they may be the same instruments, rebadged by either Thomann in Germany (HB) or someone else in the UK for J&D... Either way, the J&D was £119 and was the sweetest Jazz I've had... once I set it up. That was the downside: poorly cut nut (A slot was also too low and the string rattled, so it needed a new nut), sharp frets and a couple tall frets at the treble end... once I dealt with that, which didn't take long, it was fantastic. The pickups were slightly microphonic on mine, which surprised me (I thought microphonic pickups were a thing of the past now) but they sounded so nice that I just put up with it. I gigged with it no problem.

If it weren't because I had to downsize and I'm more of a Precision/Stingray player, that bass would still be with me. I sometimes consider buying another!

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Well, to be fair, the tension would be much higher if you tried to tune BEAD without changing strings, but with the right gauge for the B string, it should be very close to standard. D'Addario have a neat app on their site to help you select strings to give the same tension when tuning up or down from EADG. 

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7 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

Well, to be fair, the tension would be much higher if you tried to tune BEAD without changing strings, but with the right gauge for the B string, it should be very close to standard. D'Addario have a neat app on their site to help you select strings to give the same tension when tuning up or down from EADG. 

 

The discussions I was referring to all implied changing gauges. :)

It was indeed checking the D'Addario PDF that states the tension for all their strings that I first realised the tension would actually be a bit lower (for my chosen string gauges) and if anything I'd have to loosen up the truss rod a bit.

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9 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Actually the low B should be the least of your worries as, it will be the lowest tension string on your bass. 

 

24 minutes ago, mcnach said:

 

Thank you! :)

You hear so many wrong advice like "oh, watch that neck with the extra tension if you tune BEAD rather than EADG" etc... when you typically get quite noticeable lower tension. That, despite so many threads complaining about flabby B strings. You'd think people put 1+1 together ;)

Come on guys it's not just about the tension on a string is it?

It's about the force being applied by the string to neck length wise (= bowing of the neck) and across the width (= twisting of the neck).

Are you saying that a B string adds no tensile force? Well that's rubbish. The amount of force is going to be a function of the tension and the weight of the string. So a B string even under lower tension will produce a darned site more force than e.g. a top E string on a 6 string guitar. 

Similarly unless all the strings are producing exactly the same force then there will be a lateral twisting on the neck.

Neck design and the woods used (as well as humidity) and truss rods will all have an impact on how well a neck resists warping. But consistently applied force over years is going to impact a bass' neck, for sure. Older basses will generally be in worse shape than brand new ones. It's not rocket science.

Are you both saying to me that you've never encountered a warped neck then? And if, like the rest of us, you did, did it happen by magic, or was there a cause?

Edited by Al Krow
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7 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

 

Are you both saying to me that you've never encountered a warped neck then? And if, like the rest of us, you did, did it happen by magic, or was there a cause?

The worst I've ever seen was caused by no strings on, a knackered truss rod, and 20 years in the loft with no insulation. 

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To my understanding, the tension is the force that the string exerts between nut and bridge. A string requires less tension to provide a lower frequency fundamental, so increasing its thickness (gauge) restores the tension to that of a thinner string tuned to a higher frequency.

Though I may well be wrong, I'm just a bass player, standing at the back, next to the drummer, not attracting any attention.

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3 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

To my understanding, the tension is the force that the string exerts between nut and bridge. A string requires less tension to provide a lower frequency fundamental, so increasing its thickness (gauge) restores the tension to that of a thinner string tuned to a higher frequency.

Though I may well be wrong, I'm just a bass player, standing at the back, next to the drummer, not attracting any attention.

Hopefully this clarifies:

Lets say we have one string at a tension T with thickness X. This will be able to carry a load Y

Add another string to it at a tension T and thickness X. Between them they can now carry a load 2Y

The load bearing has doubled not because the tension has changed, but because we have simply doubled the number of strings i.e. the available string width.

So the load bearing or, turning it around, the load applied by the string is related to both the tension T and the width (for which a proxy = weight) of the strings.

Forgive me, if I am teaching folk to suck eggs, but there does seem some confusion here on the importance on the size / weight of the string in determining the total force and hence comments that a B string at lower tension has no effect (which is nonsense).

 

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38 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

 

Come on guys it's not just about the tension on a string is it?

It's about the force being applied by the string to neck length wise (= bowing of the neck) and across the width (= twisting of the neck).

Are you saying that a B string adds no tensile force? Well that's rubbish. The amount of force is going to be a function of the tension and the weight of the string. So a B string even under lower tension will produce a darned site more force than e.g. a top E string on a 6 string guitar. 

Similarly unless all the strings are producing exactly the same force then there will be a lateral twisting on the neck.

Neck design and the woods used (as well as humidity) and truss rods will all have an impact on how well a neck resists warping. But consistently applied force over years is going to impact a bass' neck, for sure. Older basses will generally be in worse shape than brand new ones. It's not rocket science.

Are you both saying to me that you've never encountered a warped neck then? And if, like the rest of us, you did, did it happen by magic, or was there a cause?

 

Yes, I am saying exactly that. 

Just check the figures, or even use a crude dynamometer to check it yourself before dismissing it as rubbish :D

 

The strings (typically) don't have the same tension, the treble end tends to be at higher tension than the lower end. Going BEAD (typically) makes this more even, if anything!

A neck constructed from properly dried wood, using the right cut (fibre orientation) is a pretty solid thing that resists pretty well against imbalanced string tension, fortunately, as we've observed for decades on steel stringed instruments. But wood is variable and sometimes stinky poo happens... However, tuning BEAD (say using 125-65 gauges) is actually less stressful for a neck than tuning EADG (105-45), for most strings.

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18 minutes ago, FinnDave said:

To my understanding, the tension is the force that the string exerts between nut and bridge. A string requires less tension to provide a lower frequency fundamental, so increasing its thickness (gauge) restores the tension to that of a thinner string tuned to a higher frequency.

Though I may well be wrong, I'm just a bass player, standing at the back, next to the drummer, not attracting any attention tension.

 

I fixed that for you :P

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8 hours ago, Bluewine said:

HB also has Thunderbird knock off with an active PU.

I wonder how it stacks up against what I considered those expensive Epiphone Thunderbirds.

Blue

FB_IMG_1515120115171.jpg

How about an articulate opinion on this Harley Benton Thunderbird with active PU.

It might be a nicer and more playable than my 1991 Gibson Thunderbird, I don't know.

Bluewine

Edited by Bluewine
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