The old string height question, but from new player

[Ajoten]

Never having played a DB until I got one a few months ago, I have no concept of what range is considered "normal" action (do we say "action" in bass viol world?). I was reading elsewhere someone set theirs up so at "12th fret" spot it 5mm. Mine is 15mm... 21mm at the end of fingerboard. Do I just have to man up, or do I take a hacksaw to the bridge?

(Any DB forummers in the Chilterns btw?)

[philparker]

Always measure from the end of the fingerboard to the underside of the string.

Under the E string, I would say that 13 mm is on the high side (depending on what style you play) and 8 mm is on the low side. Under the G - 9 MM is on the high side; 5 mm is on the low side.

There are lots of variables on preference and playing side so please don't quote me or this as the definitive.

[Ajoten]

Definitive or not, it sounds like mine is horribly wrong. Which is good in a way, I thought it was just me being rubbish.

[petebassist]

There are no hard and fast rules, but your action does sound on the high end of the spectrum. Double bass isn't easy even with low action, so if you're finding it difficult to play I wouldn't recommend persevering without getting the action to a more comfortable height. As to manning up, there's nothing manly about having knackered fingers. It's also worth looking at what strings you have. Lights (weichs) can make a big difference, and also having the correct string length for your bass size so that the tension is as it should be. Not everyone rates them, but an adjustable bridge is good when you're starting out as it enables you to experiment a bit with different strings & heights - you'd need a luthier for that though & more cash...

[Ajoten]

I have Silver Slaps on.

The thing only cost me £350, I bet proper luthier work be a healthy %age of that. I was wondering if cutting/filing down the notches c. 1cm be worth a pop (and more commensurate with its value).

(I understand how personal, and instrument-specific, setups can be, but I'm still surprised there appears to be NO used bridge market. Or market for different height new bridges.) Edited November 6, 2017 by Ajoten

[Dad3353]

[quote name='Ajoten' timestamp='1509965165' post='3402853']...I was wondering if cutting/filing down the notches c. 1cm be worth a pop (and more commensurate with its value)...
[/quote]

If you're a reasonable 'handicraft' type, with decent, ordinary tools, there are adjuster wheels that cost as little as $25 which might be worth trying out..? I see new, fixed bridges at around $40 or so, and even adjustables at around $50. Taking all the precautions required (keeping compression on the soundpost etc...), maybe have a go at learning how to go about improving it yourself..?
Disclaimer: I'm a drummer, so what would I know...

Edited November 6, 2017 by Dad3353

[TPJ]

[quote name='Ajoten' timestamp='1509965165' post='3402853']


I have Silver Slaps on.

The thing only cost me £350, I bet proper luthier work be a healthy %age of that. I was wondering if cutting/filing down the notches c. 1cm be worth a pop (and more commensurate with its value).

(I understand how personal, and instrument-specific, setups can be, but I'm still surprised there appears to be NO used bridge market. Or market for different height new bridges.)
[/quote]

It's worth the money to get someone to do it unless you feel competent. My first bass cost about £400 and I then spent £2-300 for new strings and a proper setup including a new bridge with adjusters and sound post adjustment.

Unlike slabs that are mass produced, even mass produced double basses all seem to differ. A used bridge from my bass would need work to get it to fit your bass. The table shape, distance to the finger board and finger board shape, distance of F-holes etc...all come into play. The cost of getting a new bridge fitted and a set up isn't usually that much and can transform the bass. Worth at least inquiring

[eddie masters]

Where are you in the Chilterns? I'm a relative newcomer to the upright with a few experiences with set up issues. I'm near Aylesbury, always happy to meet up with fellow players

 

 

[NickA]

Carefully saw the top off the bridge, following the existing curve adjusted as required to get the right string heights and having marked the positions of the notches; which you then need to file back in using a tiny round section file ( from any arts and craft shop)  A quality luthier would grimace, but on a £350 bass I wouldn't get too precious about the exact proportions of the different bits of bridge.  I did it on my bass which is worth "quite a bit" more, and it was a massive improvement.

Reason there are no 2nd hand bridges is that they don't wear out. I've had the same bass bridge for 30 years .. tho tis now shorter than twas due to my desire for a lower action.  Think my cello's bridge is even older. They only need changing if they break really.

 

[Marc S]

14 hours ago, NickA said:

Carefully saw the top off the bridge, following the existing curve adjusted as required to get the right string heights and having marked the positions of the notches; which you then need to file back in using a tiny round section file ( from any arts and craft shop)  A quality luthier would grimace, but on a £350 bass I wouldn't get too precious about the exact proportions of the different bits of bridge.  I did it on my bass which is worth "quite a bit" more, and it was a massive improvement.

Reason there are no 2nd hand bridges is that they don't wear out. I've had the same bass bridge for 30 years .. tho tis now shorter than twas due to my desire for a lower action.  Think my cello's bridge is even older. They only need changing if they break really.

 

Also, don't forget that you don't want the sound-post falling over! 
When you are taking the tension out of the strings, to remove the bridge - put the bass on its' back....
If the sound-post falls over, you need a special tool to retrieve it, or pay a luthier to do so

BTW. I think it might be a good time to fit an adjustable bridge - this will help you decide what action is best / easier for you and adjust the bridge to suit your playing, which will no doubt evolve as you improve

[Marc S]

On 11/6/2017 at 10:46, Ajoten said:

I have Silver Slaps on.

The thing only cost me £350, I bet proper luthier work be a healthy %age of that. I was wondering if cutting/filing down the notches c. 1cm be worth a pop (and more commensurate with its value).

(I understand how personal, and instrument-specific, setups can be, but I'm still surprised there appears to be NO used bridge market. Or market for different height new bridges.)

NB. As you have Silver Slaps on the bass, are you intending to play slap style DB?
Usually, slap DB players tend to have a higher action anyway - but your action still sounds quite high to me

[Lazurus]

I was in a similar position, type of bass (cheap) and a very high action out of the factory, I removed a string at a time to preserve the sound post, filed each notch in turn to my required height at the bottom of the fingerboard then onto the next. When each string was at the required height I then removed the bridge, keeping weight on the sound post, and removed the waste wood, smoothed the notches and added graphite.

The whole process was straightforward and very successful taking my heights to 7 - 10mm G to E.

 

I have also used 3mm bendy ply pads to raise the bridge, as the name suggests it is very flexible and "moulds" to the body shape keeping the integrity of the bridge feet without the need to sand.

 

Whilst not at a luthiers standard it all went well and gave the desired result total cost £1.00 for the A4 size sheet of ply.