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Semi Hollow Bass (and another two...)


Jabba_the_gut

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Guest Marcoelwray
2 hours ago, Jabba_the_gut said:

So time to cut the fret slots in the ebony fretboard for the short scale bass. I'm using a StewMac mitre block and a GW fret scale template. 

tMrHejN.jpg

Oh my ! I need that. I'm still clamping a block of wood to use as a guide for my fret saw.....

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I've cut a new fretboard for this bass and this time I measured twice and cut once!! 

BWS8hyq.jpg?2

The previous neck was 31.5" with 24 frets, for the new neck is 29.5" and obviously has to fit in the same neck pocket and the bridge has to be in roughly the same place. So this works out as the replacement neck being 22 fret for it to fit correctly.

As the chance of me getting the intonation exactly right having not tried this scale length before I think is minimal, I'm removing the original brass inserts for the bridge and filling the holes so I can repositioning it later. I'm also going to redrill the holes for the string anchors as I have a better version I'm going to install. This is done by widening the top 4mm of a 10mm hole to 12mm diameter. to do this I have a small piece of mdf with a 12mm hole in it that is placed over the original hole. One of the string anchors is used to centralise it before clamping the template in place. 

This is the body with the brass inserts removed

Nd3cNDS.jpg

Then this the body with the holed infilled

v9B6MYJ.jpg

The body had also picked up a very small dent which I sanded out. I tried refinishing but couldn't get it to match so I sanded the finish off the walnut and started to finish it again. Fussy, but I want it to be right

This is the body with the topped sanded and the string anchors holes redrilled.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress has been much slower than I hoped on this. Deciding to put my house on the market and all the stuff that goes with that has somewhat delayed this. I am hoping though to find a house with a double garage meaning more workspace but these things take time.....

Anyway, I have progressed with the neck. Truss rod channel routed:

loyJGpg.jpg

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The fretboard has been slotted (correct dimensions this time) and glued to the neck. This has then been cut on my band saw and tidied up using the router to give the final shape. I have a log made from ebony that matches the fretboard which I think contrasts nicely. The neck is birds eye maple and if it finishes anywhere as nicely as the last one I made, should look really nice.

FKUBLuL.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been getting on with some shaping and other bits and bobs on this neck. First the neck was marked up to give the rough shape (and so I don't get carried away and remove wood from the wrong place....it has happened...got carried away once and cut the channel for a truss rod on the wrong side of a blank so ended up having to make an upside down neck!)

9qdVtt4.jpg

I've also fitted the side dots. Firstly need to find the middle point between the two frets then draw a line. I then use a drilling template to ensure that all holes are in the same line on the fretboard:

HkW6s4Q.jpg

Once these are done, the plastic dot rods are inserted:

3OLDkkU.jpg

Then cut flush:

UcGj1lA.jpg

I've started the neck shaping and working out where the logo will go so this can then be routed out with a Dremel and inlayed.

dKviUf9.jpg

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During my meaningless wanderings around the parish I find myself looking more and more at random pieces of wood or broken down wooden things and wondering if I can sequestrate said timber on @Jabba_the_gut‘s behalf. I wish I knew more about wood/timber in order to be more discerning and actually purloin some lumber rather than gaze thoughtfully at it.

I have been discussing a stealth fretless build with @Jabba_the_gut but the more I look at this thread the more I think I’d just like a matching fretless!

Edited by Frank Blank
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I've used my Dremel to route the headstock for the logo - always a time consuming process!!

gSUAIFe.jpg?1

I've glued the logo in and sanded it flat. I've also completed rounding the area on the front between the nut and the headstock.

uGlSzrI.jpg?1

I'm also doing the neck shaping at the moment using my Shinto saw rasp - lovely bit of kit.

ZU86o5r.jpg?1

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On 28/05/2019 at 11:08, Andyjr1515 said:

Looks good, Jez. 

You've probably said before but do you put a round plug in the middle of your logo?

 

Hi Andy,

Yep. I clear the entire area for the inlay and use an offcut of the neck wood in the middle of the logo. I try to find a bit of wood that lines up with the surrounding grain (even though no one would really notice!!).

Cheers

 

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Manage to get a bit of time to do some more neck shaping. Starting to take shape now. The wood looks like it will have a really nice grain - it's birds eye maple but also has a nice flame to it. Hopefully that will come out nicely when the finish is applied - we'll see!

l3WZMFS.jpg?1

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And more shaping - the heel end this time. Takes a bit more time to do this as I'm blending the curves into an existing, finished body so I don't want to scratch the lacquer. Lots of sand a bit, check the fit. Sand a bit, check the fit etc. A little more to do but nearly there!

3sjU49z.jpg

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Turned my attention to sorting the electrics. I decided to remove the copper film and re-do the cavity with conductive paint. First I stripped the cavity back to bare wood then used masking tape to cover the side walls where the cover will go

qxQItkJ.jpg

With plenty of masking tape around the body to prevent any little splashes, I painted a couple of coats in the cavity:

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I have also been looking at the original cover I made. I found some veneer that I think is a much better match. The old cover:

epvQlSS.jpg

The veneer for the new:

1SwwHCP.jpg

And the two pieces side by side for contrast.

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I've also glued a couple of blocks together from which to make some wooden knobs. Not sure which will look better so will plan on making two sets to see:

MQEkZ6d.jpg?1

And finally, I've started getting the actual wiring sorted. I'm following the same layout I used in the previous bass as that seemed to work well:

Ue47YIh.jpg

 

 

Edited by Jabba_the_gut
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Just now, Frank Blank said:

The left of the two ‘knob blocks’, ahem, looks like it will match the top and back of the bass. How do you remove the cavity cover when it’s held on magnetically, if indeed that’s what you intend for this bass?

Damn I’ve just seen the magnets, sorry. I think I was trying to get one of the magnetic cavity covers off a bass you had at the last Bash and I couldn’t do it, why I didn’t ask you then is beyond me.

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