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Joebethell

Special D Curlee

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Couple of thoughts. I'm with the "keep the finish" lot, and having patched up a few flaky/cracking finishes, would suggest flowing superglue into any unstable-looking bits. When it's hardened it can be flatted & polished so it blends with the lacquer - it might also make the cracking look less obvious.

Wondering about the lacquer preventing the bridge from sitting level - surely screwing it into place will compress the uneven finish until it's flush, won't it?

If I were to remove this finish I'd try a heat gun first - very carefully so as not to scorch the wood. I'd expect the finish to soften and peel away quite easily.

But I'd leave it. Looks ace. B)

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I will do my best to keep it as close to original as I can I might try and just remove the lump of finish that has pooled in the bridge recess and fill any gaps with superglue as suggested. As the bass was never completed I might have to route the pickup deeper as it's quite shallow and drill a channel for wiring as it doesn't have one currently

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[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1502487446' post='3351867']
I will do my best to keep it as close to original as I can I might try and just remove the lump of finish that has pooled in the bridge recess and fill any gaps with superglue as suggested. As the bass was never completed I might have to route the pickup deeper as it's quite shallow and drill a channel for wiring as it doesn't have one currently
[/quote]

Do the bridge screws bite on a good piece of timber or are they right on the end of the neck beam?

If they are close you might want to take the bridge recess to a depth that would allow you to insert a make-up piece. The make-up piece would be attached to both the neck beam and the body allowing you to attach the bridge to it and thereby remove the risk of splitting the end of the neck beam.

I'd suggest with the CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue that you try it on the back first because it usually causes a whitish residue or bloom to appear on surfaces near where it is applied. I am not sure how easily the resulting blemish would buff out. For safety, ventilate the area when you use it anyway but it might help to keep a light draught airflow across the surfaces being repaired to lessen the bloom effect.

But you know all of that already right?

Edited by SpondonBassed

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[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502532296' post='3352032']


Do the bridge screws bite on a good piece of timber or are they right on the end of the neck beam?

If they are close you might want to take the bridge recess to a depth that would allow you to insert a make-up piece. The make-up piece would be attached to both the neck beam and the body allowing you to attach the bridge to it and thereby remove the risk of splitting the end of the neck beam.

I'd suggest with the CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue that you try it on the back first because it usually causes a whitish residue or bloom to appear on surfaces near where it is applied. I am not sure how easily the resulting blemish would buff out. For safety, ventilate the area when you use it anyway but it might help to keep a light draught airflow across the surfaces being repaired to lessen the bloom effect.

But you know all of that already right?
[/quote]

Thank you all advise is more than welcome

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You could always put some cyanoacrylate on the excess finish in the bridge recess, to see if it causes blooming :)

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[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1502585787' post='3352353']
You could always put some cyanoacrylate on the excess finish in the bridge recess, to see if it causes blooming :)
[/quote]

Spot on that man. That's a better suggestion than mine.

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[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502432764' post='3351334']
Looking closely at your new bridge I wonder if you might have a problem with the attaching screws. It looks from your photos as if the screws will bite at the point where the neck root meets the body beneath the top.
[/quote]

So had a quick look this week but progress has been hampered by two things.

Firstly I was going to fit the tuners only to find that I had been sent the wrong size 1/2" rather than the 3/8ths that had been ordered. After a couple of emails in which it was implied that I was at fault even though I have a clear email history with my specs stated they asked me to send back the incorrect items and the correct tuners would be sent out same day. I replied sharply saying I would post asap only to now be told they are out of stock so I have to wait 3/4weeks.

Setback 2 as you thought it looks like the bridge mounting screws will be at the point where the neck meets the body the centre two screws would be in solid neck wood but the outer two would be in the gaps you can see in the pictures.

Edited by Joebethell

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[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1503260966' post='3356824']


Setback 2 as you thought it looks like the bridge mounting screws will be at the point where the neck meets the body the centre two screws would be in solid neck wood but the outer two would be in the gaps you can see in the pictures.
[/quote]
This one should be a reasonably easy fix. If it was me, I would drill a decently sized hole (10mm dia minimum) to the screw depth with a forstner bit and glue in a hardwood dowel. There will be enough surface contact with the dowel for the gaps not to be critical. Most of the force on the bridge screws is sideways so it should be perfectly secure enough.

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1503297380' post='3356919']

This one should be a reasonably easy fix. If it was me, I would drill a decently sized hole (10mm dia minimum) to the screw depth with a forstner bit and glue in a hardwood dowel. There will be enough surface contact with the dowel for the gaps not to be critical. Most of the force on the bridge screws is sideways so it should be perfectly secure enough.
[/quote]

THANKS that's a great tip ūüĎć

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Been a while but finally got a little bit more work done on the Curlee.

After my concerns over the bridge I have managed to attach it with very little work i sanded some of the finish in the cutaway flat and it fits in quite well now. I have also managed to screw it down without issue although the two outer screws are at the point where the neck joins the body they seem to bite into the body wood deeper than the neck so it feels very secure.

Tuners have also now been attached after receiving the correct fitment.

Next on the plans order a pickup and attach/shape the brass nut so I can get some tension on the neck and get it setup and playable.





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Right time I got back on this.

After not really getting time to do anything for a few months I plan on working on the Curlee over the weekend so hopefully some interesting updates to come.

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Thats a fine looking bass you have there sir. Keep those updates coming. It's looking great!

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Today has been a day to forget really. So in preparation for trying to get something done at the weekend on the bass I tried to stick some strings on to make sure everything is good up to tension (I should have done this a while ago but time has gotten away from me the last couple of months). Anyway things of note! 

Lucky I have a spare nut as in my absence of skill I may have adjusted it tiny bit too low but the even with it the bass has a bigger issue the bride recess. 

The only thing I can think is that the mark1 Badass has a thicker base plate as the Hipshot now struggles with adjustment. Height has to be set at a scary angle to get the string off the board. 

So back to square one do I wait for an old badass with the narrow spacing (rarer than s rare thing) or do I find some way to shim the bridge maybe like the old brass tone plate idea that yamaha used to use? 

Edited by Joebethell

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The brass plate shim sounds like a good idea and at least it's reversible (rather than trying to permanently fill the recess with wood). Does it look like the bridge will be at the right height when it's sat at the same level as the face of the body?

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1 hour ago, Joebethell said:

Today has been a day to forget really. So in preparation for trying to get something done at the weekend on the bass I tried to stick some strings on to make sure everything is good up to tension (I should have done this a while ago but time has gotten away from me the last couple of months). Anyway things of note! 

Lucky I have a spare nut as in my absence of skill I may have adjusted it tiny bit too low but the even with it the bass has a bigger issue the bride recess. 

The only thing I can think is that the mark1 Badass has a thicker base plate as the Hipshot now struggles with adjustment. Height has to be set at a scary angle to get the string off the board. 

So back to square one do I wait for an old badass with the narrow spacing (rarer than s rare thing) or do I find some way to shim the bridge maybe like the old brass tone plate idea that yamaha used to use? 

I'm sure a spacer plate is the way to go. 

Schaller provide them on some of their bridges as standard - so the principle is utterly sound.  Do you remember this same problem with @W1_Pro's beautiful Mockingbird?

gFTvk6Ll.jpg

 

In the end, I had to fit 3 (!) spacers to get the bridge high enough:

ctphp4ll.jpg

 

Anything that is hard and cut to the right size will do.  It will be in compression only so, providing is isn't crushable it will work and if it is hard wood or plastic it will tranfer the vibrations just fine.  Maybe some cuts from an ebony headstock plate or similar?  You could prove it out with some plywood first to see how thick it needs to be....

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2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I'm sure a spacer plate is the way to go. 

Schaller provide them on some of their bridges as standard - so the principle is utterly sound.  Do you remember this same problem with @W1_Pro's beautiful Mockingbird?

gFTvk6Ll.jpg

 

In the end, I had to fit 3 (!) spacers to get the bridge high enough:

ctphp4ll.jpg

 

Anything that is hard and cut to the right size will do.  It will be in compression only so, providing is isn't crushable it will work and if it is hard wood or plastic it will tranfer the vibrations just fine.  Maybe some cuts from an ebony headstock plate or similar?  You could prove it out with some plywood first to see how thick it needs to be....

Thanks for the suggestion I can see me playing with some wood scraps then getting some brass and seeing what I can come up with! Might secure it with a couple of screws recessed to the front depending on depth as it will be hidden under the bridge and held st the back by the bridge mounting anyway 

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10 hours ago, Joebethell said:

Thanks for the suggestion I can see me playing with some wood scraps then getting some brass and seeing what I can come up with! Might secure it with a couple of screws recessed to the front depending on depth as it will be hidden under the bridge and held st the back by the bridge mounting anyway 

I'd suggest you don't attach the shim.  If you make it with enough accuracy the through-holes for the bridge mount screws will provide location for it.  The shim thing is often misunderstood.

Shims should always be loose when the parts are disassembled.

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1 minute ago, SpondonBassed said:

I'd suggest you don't attach the shim.  If you make it with enough accuracy the through-holes for the bridge mount screws will provide location for it.  The shim thing is often misunderstood.

Shims should always be loose when the parts are disassembled.

Thanks for the tip 

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