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Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless


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3 hours ago, Saved said:

I think that thicker fretboard makes the truss rod work more dificult and dont let the sttings make a bow to the neck

I think that depends on the stiffness of the fretboard, not the thickness (although these can be related) because the truss rod acts on the whole neck.  Does the fretboard bend at all?  Also, think carbon rod stiffened necks -  one holy grail seems to be building necks that do not bend.

I think the only issue might be that, in order to maintain the planned thickness of the whole neck, the truss rod slot will need to be 2-3mm deeper in the neck itself - and that might be getting the bottom of that slot very close to the bottom of the neck, particularly at the nut end.

You could, of course, rout a shallow slot in the back of the fretboard.

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Given the scale of the bass it shouldn't be too much of a problem. It is quite thick compared to most, but as long as you get your geometry correct it should be fine. Especially given the skills you've already demonstrated :)

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1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I think that depends on the stiffness of the fretboard, not the thickness (although these can be related) because the truss rod acts on the whole neck.  Does the fretboard bend at all?  Also, think carbon rod stiffened necks -  one holy grail seems to be building necks that do not bend.

 

...and reading back, I've just remembered that you have rods in anyway.

The bit I'm not sure - now I am also remembering that your neck has that intriguing twist in it - is what purpose the truss rod has anyway?  I can't see how, if tightened, the rod would give a meaningful relief (that is, in which plane would it creating the relief??).

If I'm right, then the stiffer the neck the better - in which case the thicker fretboard and carbon rods will help and not hinder.

It's just a guess though.  I might be completely misunderstanding the design... 9_9

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Well..in my 40" scale p-bass,i have made a very stiff neck.Basevall but is nothing in front of this neck.

But the stiffer the neck is,the harder you adjust it.We need strong,but elastic necks so we can set up our instrument easy.

If it become so strong and stiff,the strings will not have the power to give the relief i need and i will have to use the truss rod to bow the neck and not to straighten it.

Anyway,this is an experimental bass,so any failure is into the program from the first day this build started

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On 5/6/2018 at 09:38, SpondonBassed said:

I'm with you on that.

It's about the most ambitious build I've seen here.  We were talking about it briefly at the fifth Midlands Bash Bash yesterday.

Three BC members who build regularly gave presentations on their methods and the tools that they use.  When your "ergonobass" was mentioned the question of playing position came up.  I kind of assumed that you'd have to play this like an upright instrument unless you were seven feet tall.  Having seen you do the double cut body, I am thinking again...

If played horizontally by a right hander, am I right in thinking that you would have to have the bridge a lot further to your right in order to reach first position?

PS:  The links to your earlier photos are broken.  Have you still got those images please?

I think have all of the pictures that are broken links now.

You wan to post all of them (i don't know exactly what i have posted) or you wan to see a few specific pics?

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On 27/05/2018 at 22:11, Saved said:

I think have all of the pictures that are broken links now.

You wan to post all of them (i don't know exactly what i have posted) or you wan to see a few specific pics?

Thanks.

The router jig for the twisted neck was the bit that was hard to understand.  Now that I have seen the images it's much easier to follow.

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3 hours ago, Christine said:

That is an awesome build, very ambitious, a nightmare to get your head around all those angles I'm sure. I'm very impressed

I like to do weird things,but the best i am doing is..ugly things..man,i could be the king of ugly things

Till this day i jeep trying with the weird

 

I cant compare my builds with yours even in my wildest dreams.you are far forward from me

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  • 1 month later...

Ladies and gents..

i give you,my headpiece.

String holes 4.2mm,string holding bolts M5,total wight (without the bolts)100 gr.Next step,paint it black..

 

 

ok.Lets get serious now.

The pics..

2143v3d.jpgrbmdrp.jpg15ei7hh.jpg2dk9wdh.jpgkdtzzp.jpg29vxvmo.jpg262mihc.jpg

 

PS. i bought new bolts,black,shorter than these and full length threaded

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11 hours ago, Saved said:

PS. i bought new bolts,black,shorter than these and full length threaded

Did I see Torx bolt heads?  Good move.   Allen headed bolts are not durable in high torque situations.

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1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

Did I see Torx bolt heads?  Good move.   Allen headed bolts are not durable in high torque situations.

No.They are allen headed bolts.

I didnt knew that torx bolts are better.

I will try to find torx bolts and replace the allen bolts.

Thank you for your advice

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8 minutes ago, Saved said:

No.They are allen headed bolts.

I didnt knew that torx bolts are better.

I will try to find torx bolts and replace the allen bolts.

Thank you for your advice

You are welcome.

The biggest problem with Allen headed bolts is that you tend to get poorly made Allen keys.  It is possible to get high quality keys that drive from the flank as opposed to the points of the hexagonal cross section.  They will prolong the life of the internal wrenching surface of the bolt.  Such keys are expensive.  Even if you have a set, it just takes one slip with a cheap key to compromise the socket in the bolt head.  This is called camming out as mentioned in the extract below.

With Torx fasteners, the socket shape is complex and both the bolts and the keys are made to tighter tolerances.  That is not to say that you can't find poorly made Torx keys.  It just means that you are less likely to find them than with Allen keys.

In this application the bolts will be used time and time again for string changes hence my recommendation.

From the Wikipedia description:

"The hexalobular socket screw drive, often referred to by the original proprietary brand name Torx ( /ˈtɔːrks/) or by the alternative generic name star drive, uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. The drive was developed in 1967[44] by Camcar Textron.[45] Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out, and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out. A tamper-resistant Security Torx head has a small pin inside the recess. Owing to its six-fold symmetry, a Torx driver can also be used as an improvised substitute for a hex driver, although careful sizing is critical to prevent stripping the socket."

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