Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless

[Saved]

Well..it looks like i am starting a topic here for my first headless and multiscale twisted neck bass build..
I am at the beginning yet,still have work to prepare the neck woods.Maple-wenge neckthrough with 2 double jazz pickups.
I dont have all the tools i need,so i have to go in a furniture maker to do some works,and this is the most slowly going part of the build.
Here is the neck


I need help to choose body shape,and how to use common bass machine tuners behind the bridge.
Any idea will be helpful

[TheGreek]

If your going down the headless route check out my latest build with Andy [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/302963-a-bridge-too-far/"]http://basschat.co.u...bridge-too-far/[/url] - going headless but using a headstock (sounds silly but..). I've also started a thread showing headless parts and where to get them.

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/303036-headless-bass-parts/

If you want to go headless but want single ball strings there's a bridge available (well I say available, can't find it in the UK) which allows you to do so. I've got one on another build but don't want to cannibalise it for parts.
Here: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400934036270?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.u...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/url]

There are headless systems available on ebay for around £20

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Set-Black-4-String-Headless-Bass-Guitar-Bridge-System-Guitar-Parts-V2L7-/172442364526?hash=item28265daa6e:g:MrUAAOSwA4dWHysp"]http://www.ebay.co.u...rUAAOSwA4dWHysp[/url]

You can also get individual headless tuners

[url="http://headless171.rssing.com/browser.php?indx=56698534&item=14"]http://headless171.r...6698534&item=14[/url]

Watching with interest..Good luck with the build.

Edited April 5, 2017 by TheGreek

[Saved]

Thank you for your help.
I will not use headstock,because i dont wan to spend much wood.The wood i have is 50" long,so 45" is the most i can get.If i can go 46" scale,i will.I have allready the strings,and they are like the common strings but larger.Nit double ball end.
Thinking to have a staight cut in the headstock side,and use zero fret to start the scale.On the bridge side,i thing to use 5(i forget to tell it will be a 5string) i will use 5seperate saddles (i cant descride it,you know,the bridges who are one string alone,)and behind of them,common tuners to tune the strings

[TheGreek]

These??



These seem to be the best value: https://www.thomann.de/gb/abm_3801b_single_headless_bridge.htm

[Norris]

45 inches?! Have you got very long arms or are you making an upright?

Edited April 6, 2017 by Norris

[Saved]

These
https://www.google.gr/search?q=bass+bridge+individual&hl=el&source=android-browser-suggest&prmd=ivmn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjxu-v555DTAhUL2BoKHVWRBBgQ_AUIBygB&biw=360&bih=556#imgrc=RHe6qF2ce5_Z3M:
I have them in my hands.
I will cut the point that is holding the ball ends to make them shorter.
I would keep it as low cost build as possible.

Norris,i am playing with a 40" easy.In the begining i was thinking for 43" and made a blank to see how it is.I can play the 43" very well (not thrash-speed metal or everything extremly fast,but in my style is comfortable) so i thing lets go for 45.Why not?

[Saved]

Gluing a few pieces of wood to make the neck more thicker,and then i will start give him shape

[MoonBassAlpha]

What's that coming over the hill, is it a monster?

[Saved]

I need to make the neck woods as thinck as i can,so i will have space to give them shape without worring about the dimensions.
Now all the woods for the neck are ready,but didnt find time to go to a furniture maker and cut them staight so i could start giving shape.I hope i will do it before april is gone

[Saved]

MoonBassAlpha,sorry if what i wrote didnt match with your post.I misunderstod your post because my poor english.
So if someone want to ask a thing,please,be gentle and use simple words.
Thank you in advance :-)

[TheGreek]

His post quotes a song

[color=#006621][font=arial, sans-serif][media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZtJxhp7mUw[/media][/font][/color]

[color=#006621][font=arial, sans-serif]Easily misunderstood if you don't know the song...[/font][/color]

Edited April 26, 2017 by TheGreek

[rOB]

This sounds really interesting. Good luck.

[Saved]

i didnt knew this song

[Saved]

The neck wood is sanded.
Next step is to cut the body and screw the neck(it will be neckthrough,but not glued the body,so if i wanna try other body shape,the change will be easy,but from nut till the bridge,it would be one piece)and the twisted shape will continue to the body to looks a lil pretty

[Saved]

Τhe jig to make the twisted neck is ready.
You can see the router following the angles


Next step is to give the shape in the wood.Don"t know when,but i believe soon

[TheGreek]

Weird....

[Saved]

I was ready to cut the wood,but i have a problem with the angles.The most important is the 24th fret.Should be 0° angle.
It gave me 12° bridge,25°nut.
I dont like the numbers.
I like nut 20°maximum.
I have to check it again with clear mind

[samhay]

I like the jig, but what keeps the router square to the two side rails? If it rotates about the spindle axis, you will change the angle.
I guess the trick is also to get the neck blank centered in the correct place so you have 0 degree twist at the correct fret position?

I assume this is your inspiration?
[url="http://littleguitarworks.com/torzal-natural-twist/"]http://littleguitarw...-natural-twist/[/url]

Edited June 20, 2017 by samhay

[Saved]

I am not sure if i understand your question because of my poor english.
I will try to answer what i understand,you can ask again if you like.
I have add a wooden driver to help me handle the router.I will make easy steps,not deep cuts to be able to have good control.I will post foto later to see the driver.
Yes,i inspired from little guitars.
Since is my last build,i realy like to try something new.
So torzal twist,fanned frets,headles,low weight and ergonomic body is my target.
I dont know what it will become in the end,but i will try for the best

[samhay]

Please excuse the ascii art.

Edit - that didn't work. Will upload a picture:

[url="https://www.dropbox.com/s/svh7qltx59uqpx6/twist.png?dl=0"]https://www.dropbox..../twist.png?dl=0[/url]
(please forgive the spelling).

If you do not have the metal rods connected to the router base square / at 90 degree with the rails in your jig, the angle will not be what you calculated.

Edited June 20, 2017 by samhay

[Saved]

The thin metal rods are going through the base of the router.
The big metal rods with shape Γ are not going through the base,because the thin metal rods are slide up on them

[samhay]

With reference to this photo:




What happens if you slip and only push on the right handle of the router?

Edited June 20, 2017 by samhay

[Saved]

Ok.Now i get what you mean.
First comes the safety.
Thats why i made all this jig to be low at the ground.
I like working at the knees because of the stability.
I didnt thoght that i may slip.
I have add 2 wooden drivers,to help me not fall the metal rods down.
Even with the parallel driver,the router had in the box,if you slip,you destroyed the wood you are routing.
Thats
why i will work slow cuts,not deep,low rpm.
If i wan to make a 100% stable jig,it will cost me 200-300€ and i dont wan to spend them.
So,i will work with care

[Saved]

I mqde the neck.Now just need a final pass with the router to clear the surface.
The angles must be 18-17nut 9-10 bridge

[Saved]

Almost done (jus sanding need now)