12" Cab Diary Continued

[tauzero]

43 minutes ago, Smanth said:

Could you fill the existing hole/gap with something like this

and then drill a new right sized hole?

S’manth x

 

The hole's already the right size, there's just a groove round it where the teeth of the T-nut go. I was inclined to go with gluing the T-nut in place as @stevie says, if I put the araldite on the wood-facing surface of the T-nut (after making sure that it's got a good thread), put a little 3-in-1 onto the bolt thread in case of accidents, and pull it into place with bolt and washer, that should do the job.

[Phil Starr]

I believe the Super Steel is epoxy based with a filler.

 

As described I don’t think you’ll have too much of a problem. The teeth of the t nut are only there to stop the nut turning. They shouldn’t need to be very strong and the epoxy or filler should hold it. If you check the thread isn’t binding and make it finger tight before you use any pressure you should be able to tighten it enough and the strength should be unaffected

[sandy_r]

16 hours ago, tauzero said:

...

This does leave me with the problem of the knackered one, as my endeavours to extract the bolt have basically cut a moat around the hole so I'm not sure that there's anything for a replacement T-nut to bite on at the moment. Would Araldite, the goddess of mending things, work?

...

 

There is another technique which might work for you:

 

 - make a suitable amount of DIY MDF using coarse sawdust from scap piece of the original wood material, rolled thoroughly in sufficient PVA wood glue to coat all sawdust fibres and make a dryish, malleable fully-compacted mix;

 - pre-coat the replacement bolt shaft with thin but complete layer of vaseline (or drop or two of washing-up liquid); insert the bolt through small stack of large washers (or DIY washer of ply) sufficient to take up slack on outside if wood hole;

 - insert bolt through existing hole, screw on T-nut from rear, leaving sufficient gap to tamp in ball of DIY MDF and completely fill your recently created 'moat', scraping excess material to approximate height of surrounding wood;

- leave like this, to harden, for around a day;

- slowly tighten bolt to pull T-nut into hardened DIY MDF, and then remove bolt and remove/dry traces of lubricant

 

whichever method you choose - good luck!

 

[tauzero]

Today's method:

1. Go round all the T-nuts which are in place, checking that they thread up properly (one didn't, so I knocked it out)
2. Replace the T-nut with another that I checked would thread from the correct end, using a bolt and penny washer to pull it into place
3. Put epoxy on face of T-nut that goes onto back of baffle
4. Used lightly oiled bolt and penny washer to pull T-nut into place, and left for a little while
5. Put speaker in and didn't c0ck up putting in the bolts this time

Just the grille to secure then.

[Downunderwonder]

On 08/11/2023 at 10:35, Smanth said:

Could you fill the existing hole/gap with something like this

and then drill a new right sized hole?

S’manth x

That stuff is basically Araldite with colouring afaik. Good luck drilling it. Same problem of not yielding to the Tnut flanges so using it as adhesive/filler at the same time as mounting the Tnut much better idea.

[Chienmortbb]

On 07/11/2023 at 22:23, tauzero said:

put a little 3-in-1 onto the bolt thread in case of accidents

fill the thread with vaseline.

[PaulThePlug]

^ Nothing wet... I'd use a bar of soap or candle wax... same as on wood screws, zips etc...

[Chienmortbb]

41 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

^ Nothing wet... I'd use a bar of soap or candle wax... same as on wood screws, zips etc...

Good Shout.

[tauzero]

It was just a drop, no excess, to make sure the thread didn't get stuck.

 

All done now, grille on, and a test with the Puma 900 powering it went well.