Push/pull volume pot with tone cut on pull operation - All sorted thanks to TheFyst :)

[SmallDawg]

Hello

I was wondering if it's possible to wire in a single 250k push pull volume pot to a bass but have it so that when you pull it up, it still acts as a volume pot when you turn it but so that it's cut the tone?
I'm tired so please forgive my poor wording haha.

I basically want it so that when you pull it up, it would have the same effect as if you were to roll the tone pot on a precision or jazz bass fully off.

Thanks in advance for any help

Edited September 9, 2014 by SmallDawg

[neepheid]

[quote name='SmallDawg' timestamp='1410216348' post='2547321']
Hello

I was wondering if it's possible to wire in a single 250k push pull volume pot to a bass but have it so that when you pull it up, it still acts as a volume pot when you turn it but so that it's cut the tone?
I'm tired so please forgive my poor wording haha.

I basically want it so that when you pull it up, it would have the same effect as if you were to roll the tone pot on a precision or jazz bass fully off.

Thanks in advance for any help
[/quote]

So basically you want the switch part of the push/pull to switch in a capacitor which then bleeds as much treble as it is capable of down to earth when activated? I'm sure that is eminently possible and someone cleverer than me will be along shortly with a wiring diagram

[icastle]

Assuming your bass is wired something like this:



Simply replace your volume pot wire for wire and then connect the switch part so that one contact connects to the centre contact of the tone control and the other connects to the casing of the tone control.

[thefyst]

last attempt...it was bugging me

[HowieBass]

I think a dual concentric pot would offer greater flexibility than the situation where a tone control is fully open or closed and it still only needs one hole in the body/control plate.

[thefyst]

yeah you could do it like that ...


dual concentric pots are a little harder to get hold of tho since you would want one taper to be lin and the other to be log...but you might not care about that

Edited September 9, 2014 by thefyst

[SmallDawg]

[quote name='thefyst' timestamp='1410221821' post='2547344']
last attempt...it was bugging me


[/quote]

Thank you so much for the help there Thefyst (sorry i don't know your name). I really do appreciate it. I see how many times you changed your diagrams too haha. That'll be perfect for what I want. I either use the tone control fully open or fully off, nowhere in between. I have a spare push/pull put around so i'm just going to use that.

Thank you again for your efforts on doing that, I really appreciate it

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1410250510' post='2547417']
I think a dual concentric pot would offer greater flexibility than the situation where a tone control is fully open or closed and it still only needs one hole in the body/control plate.
[/quote]

As said above Howie, i use the tone pot either fully open or fully off, i barely ever touch anything in-between plus on the bass, I have it wired up with a Spector TonePump pre amp on an active/passive 2 way DPDT switch so this will basically be a tarty little touch on the bass as it's one that i'm experimenting on all different wiring styles on. Thank you for the suggestion though but also, i don't like stacked knobs unless it's on a Jazz Bass

[HowieBass]

I have a stacked knob Jazz on my most wanted list haha! And good luck with the rewiring work!

[pfretrock]

These switch pots are usually 8mm thread mount, so if you want to replace an existing 10mm pot get some 0.8mm solid wire (if you can find it), form into a circular ring and drop into the gap in the pickguard, before putting the nut on. Perfectly centered up control. Or just screw it down anyway if you're not bothered about alignment.

[iiipopes]

The above diagram has the treble cut with the switch down. If the OP wants the treble cut with the switch up, then put the capacitor on the other two lugs. Even better, and a more simple arrangement, is to have the capacitor wired to the lug closest to the potentiometer on the same side as the "in" wire is attached, and the other leg of the capacitor soldered to any convenient grounding point.

[SmallDawg]

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1410629140' post='2551456']
The above diagram has the treble cut with the switch down. If the OP wants the treble cut with the switch up, then put the capacitor on the other two lugs...
[/quote]

Yeah i realised that after i had wired it in and put my bass back together. I might re-open it tonight and change over the lugs it's on. Luckily i didn't cut those 2 lugs off like i was planning on doing to keep anything from touching them haha. Still, can't thank "TheFyst" enough for his help on it.

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1410545143' post='2550672']
These switch pots are usually 8mm thread mount, so if you want to replace an existing 10mm pot get some 0.8mm solid wire (if you can find it), form into a circular ring and drop into the gap in the pickguard, before putting the nut on. Perfectly centered up control. Or just screw it down anyway if you're not bothered about alignment.
[/quote]

Luckily it's not mounted to a pick guard and the hole is only 8mm diameter on the body of the bass so i haven't had to fill the gap up or anything BUT i shall bare that in mind in future as I am taking the CTS pots out of one of my basses and replacing it with an active pre-amp which i know has much smaller pots so I'll do that on it, thank you very much

[pfretrock]

[quote name='SmallDawg' timestamp='1410630334' post='2551478']
Luckily it's not mounted to a pick guard and the hole is only 8mm diameter on the body of the bass so i haven't had to fill the gap up or anything BUT i shall bare that in mind in future as I am taking the CTS pots out of one of my basses and replacing it with an active pre-amp which i know has much smaller pots so I'll do that on it, thank you very much
[/quote]
Another comment - I fitted one to my Jag yesterday. The pots have split splined shafts intended for push on knobs. I fitted Fender type knobs with set screws in the side. I decided the screw should bear down on the slot rather than the splined side. Seems a safer option to me, the split may tend to open and hold onto the knob rather than bending inwards and working loose.

[ForbiddenWytch]

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I just found this linked through google and have a question.

I want to do this mod to a bass but I want to have the woofer pick up on a volume then I have a P/J set on a 3 way toggle going to another volume pot. Should I wire the 2 volume pots up like you do on a Jazz Bass then run it to a tone pot, Or in this case, a pre amp then the output jack?

I'm guessing if it's yes, I'd go woofer volume, P/J volume then tone/pre amp. All the pick ups are passive but thinking that it needs to be woofer before the P/J volume so it doesn't cut the tone from the P/J pick ups.

Thanks!