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ben_eat_pie

3/10 cabs... any reason why nobody makes them?

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just wondering if anyone knows or can explain why there are no 3/10 cabs in producion (that i know of anyway), i'd like of with a horn...!

might be something to do with wiring and impedance... i havn't a clue... that was a guess!


ben

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There are a few manufacturers making them.... Mark Bass had one in their range..... I guess it's to do with the impedance as most hover round the 5-6 ohm mark

Might be worth speaking to Mike at Iceni about his Zoot cabs..... he could probably make you what your after for not a lot of cash

Jay

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[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='223270' date='Jun 20 2008, 09:45 PM']just wondering if anyone knows or can explain why there are no 3/10 cabs in producion (that i know of anyway), i'd like of with a horn...!

might be something to do with wiring and impedance... i havn't a clue... that was a guess!


ben[/quote]


For starters I suggest that you explore the Epifani range. I think you might find a 310 there.

In fact oldhorsemurphy has an Epi UL310 for sale on this very forum.

Impedance is generally 5.3 ohms i.e. 3 16-ohm speakers in parallel, but you treat it as 4-ohms.

Edited by obbm

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hi folks,

not sure on reasoning, i guess most manufacturers are set up for the conventional 2 or 4 drivers per cab routine...

the issues with impedance could be overcome in a number of ways, using two 8 ohm speakers in parralell to give 4 ohm and then putting this in series with a 4 ohm, this would give 8 ohms for a common crossover figure with which to use a horn.

However, the problem with this would be that the output from the amp is shared unequally between the drivers....

another way would be to use two 16ohm and one 8 ohm in parallel, which would give 4 ohm - then you would need a 4 ohm crossover, but again the output is shared unevenly...

you could comensate by using a higher rated driver for the lower impedance driver in each case, but it would still be adding more to the sound than the two higher impedance speakers in parallel...

Perhaps these are some of the reasons?

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[quote name='karlbbb' post='223859' date='Jun 21 2008, 09:53 PM']Do they not make 12-ohm speakers? 12-ohm speakers, 3 in parallel = 4 ohms![/quote]

Nope! 4, 8, 16 or 32 ohms.

3 x 16-ohms in parallel gives 5.3-ohms which is the impedance of the Eplifani UL310.



Interestingly the SWR Goliath Senior 6 x 10 is also 5.3-ohms.

As long as you have a powerful enough amp it makes f***-all difference having 5.3-ohms.

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[quote name='RIM Basses' post='223886' date='Jun 21 2008, 11:32 PM']

4 or 8 Ohms, 900w[/quote]

How do they do that then Robbie, do you know?

Is it just a nominal label of 4/8 (couldn't be 3/6 otherwise amps would be in jeopardy) or is it genuine!

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Am pretty sure Epifani started saying theirs were 4 ohms cos saying 5.3 was confusing people. Its not gonna break anything in the impedence is more than it stated unless you are using a valve amp. All impedence ratings are nominal anyway as impedence changes with frequency.

Edited by bass_ferret

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For sure seems like they should be 5.3 ohms, I will check with Marc. Maybe they crossover units or the way they wire up the cabs give them 4/8 ohms.

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[quote name='steve-soar' post='223545' date='Jun 21 2008, 12:44 PM'][/quote]

Steve, what's that bass in the background - is something interesting happening to it?

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That's not surreal bass ferret...

I was commenting on maybe why they are nt so common as the usual 1 x , 2x and 4 x variants

It also does not necessarily matter with valve amps either... although as with any impedance 'mismatch', there will be reduced output and bandwidth

:)

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[quote name='karlbbb' post='223859' date='Jun 21 2008, 08:53 PM']Do they not make 12-ohm speakers? 12-ohm speakers, 3 in parallel = 4 ohms![/quote]

I guess if you had the money, anything is possible!!!!

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[quote name='gilmour' post='224596' date='Jun 22 2008, 11:27 PM']Steve, what's that bass in the background - is something interesting happening to it?[/quote]If you call collecting dust interesting.
I was going to get it sorted out but with it being right handed, I just haven't been inspired.
I gave it to a guitarist friend who was going to do something to it for himself but when I saw how he was getting on I quickly took it back.







Any Ideas? (yeah, put it in the f***in' bin and burn it) :)

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hey steve,

the fingerboard could either be replaced or the gouges filled with rosewood dust mixed in epoxy. The sanded flat. use a sanding block and perhaps tape up around the area to sand with masking tape. then dependent on radius of fingerboard either gat a radius block of the correct radius or a large hardwood (or glue a few pieces of 2" x 18mm mdf together) to use this as a sanding block and carefully sand the whole of the fingerboard to clean it up.

with the body, wet and heat the dings (you can use a wet cloth and apply heat via a soldering iron placed over this - it will often swell out the wood where it has been compressed from bumps... if not, you may have to sand the marks out.

plug the control pot holes ( i think you said you were left so would want to move controls to other side. you could use a router and flush trim cuter with bottom mounted bearing to make a copy of the control cavity shape and replicate it on other side of instrument and rather than struggling to fill the original control cavity, you could make matching covers for either side and therefore keep some symmetry...

you could likewise adda scratchplate on front same shape on either side that covered the old holes after pluggin if you were worried about that aesthetic - it will usually be noticeable in lighter woods...

you would need sanding the whole body before relacquering anyway, so any filling or removing of dents or holes you couldn't plug can be sanded out and the plugs in control pots sanded flush...

:) enjoy :huh: hope that helps, as you never really stated what you had in mind or I missed that part...

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I'd like to see someone resurrect the EA 3x10" design but in a lighter format.

5.3 ohms is a perfectly sensible nominal impedance for a cab, treat it as a 4 ohm cab that's a little easier on the amp. I don't like these designs that achieve a 4 or 8 ohm impedance through strange series/parallel connections and mixed impedance woofers because you get uneven power distribution. The Berg 6x10" uses 24 ohm drivers to get 4 ohm impedance, I presume the 3x10" uses 12 ohm ones likewise.

Alex

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[quote name='steve-soar' post='224723' date='Jun 23 2008, 09:18 AM']If you call collecting dust interesting.
I was going to get it sorted out but with it being right handed, I just haven't been inspired.
I gave it to a guitarist friend who was going to do something to it for himself but when I saw how he was getting on I quickly took it back.

Any Ideas? (yeah, put it in the f***in' bin and burn it) :)[/quote]

I forgotten I'd asked about this, looks like a decent body. Bloodaxe has posted a really inspiring 'ressurection' of an Old Aria though neck, might be interesting/inspiring for you...
[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5094"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5094[/url]

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[quote name='alexclaber' post='237108' date='Jul 11 2008, 10:00 AM']I'd like to see someone resurrect the EA 3x10" design but in a lighter format.

5.3 ohms is a perfectly sensible nominal impedance for a cab, treat it as a 4 ohm cab that's a little easier on the amp. I don't like these designs that achieve a 4 or 8 ohm impedance through strange series/parallel connections and mixed impedance woofers because you get uneven power distribution. The Berg 6x10" uses 24 ohm drivers to get 4 ohm impedance, I presume the 3x10" uses 12 ohm ones likewise.

Alex[/quote]

Tecamp/Tech Soundsystems just label their 6x10 6ohms and don't fudge the issue.

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[url="http://www.tec-amp.com/index.php?id=107"]The new ones are rated 4 or 8 Ohms...[/url]

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[quote name='BigRedX' post='237302' date='Jul 11 2008, 01:37 PM'][url="http://www.tec-amp.com/index.php?id=107"]The new ones are rated 4 or 8 Ohms...[/url][/quote]

How very dare they!

Pah, what was wrong with just leaving it at 6ohms I wonder? A stand alone 6ohm 6x10 cab rejigged to deliver 4ohms (wonder what they've done... if anything) will pretty much deliver the same performance, especially at the sensitivity they are rated at!

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