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Adjusting Your Action


Hobbayne
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I have been having trouble with the little grub screw on the P Bass G string saddle, it seems that the vibrations etc, are causing the screw to come loose and drop the saddle. I have sorted it by a little silicon to keep it tight.
This however, had me checking the action every couple of weeks, and I was wondering how often do you all tweak your action?

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[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1354488537' post='1886674']
I have been having trouble with the little grub screw on the P Bass G string saddle, it seems that the vibrations etc, are causing the screw to come loose and drop the saddle. I have sorted it by a little silicon to keep it tight.
This however, had me checking the action every couple of weeks, and I was wondering how often do you all tweak your action?
[/quote]

Once, when I buy the bass. After that, I've never had to bother with it. Most of my basses have been pretty settled and haven't needed any 'tweaking'... Maybe I've just been lucky?

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I very rarely adjust the action. I might as for it to be changed slightly when I get them
set up,but usually I keep it where it is. Some of my basses are set up pretty high,others
are really low,most are medium-medium/low.I don't know the specifics,I just ask for them
to be low/medium/high or inbetween.

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When i buy a new/ second hand bass i have a luthier check them over then never touch them, had a '78 jazz for 25yrs that fell off the stage on numerous occasions.. (dopey roadie) although once i was still attached to it (too many beers) and the action and intonation was still bang on.. Good ol fender

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[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1354491745' post='1886715']
You can get a liquid, don't remember the name, which you can put on screws and they won't work loose.

I've seen Charlie Chandler use this so it must be a common luthier repair tool. I'd give a guitar repair shop a call and get some.
[/quote]

Its common enough stuff used for loads of things especially in automotive. Its called LOCTITE. Available in all good DIY or Automotive stores.

A

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[quote name='apa' timestamp='1354492040' post='1886720']
Its common enough stuff used for loads of things especially in automotive. Its called LOCTITE. Available in all good DIY or Automotive stores.

A
[/quote]

+1 on this. I use this stuff for anything that may vibrate loose. It's what it's purpose built for.
Stops jacks from loosening and spinning also.

I set all mine up myself and most work quite well. Been all over the place over the years but these days I have it set about 2-3mm off of the last fret, and the board almost flat. My TRB6II is set like this and plays all along perfectly.
A few just don't quite sit where I want them but that's because of either dodgy frets or the fact I cannot adjust nut heights accordingly.
...I really should get a pro to look at my basses, at least the ones I play all the time.
Can't think of anyone in Leicester decent enough though.

Edited by Kongo
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[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1354522278' post='1886816']
The only time I check the action is when I buy a bass, unless I take it to a luthier to be set up. From then on I adjust the truss rod in Spring/Autumn, if the weather dictates it`s needed, and that`s all.
[/quote]
+1 If the bridge is good its going to be the neck that has moved not the saddles, I think this is the root of a lot of crap basses where people try to lower the saddles to get over the over bowed neck. Obviously if I have swapped to a new gauge of strings then it has to be done then too but I have only gone from 40's to 45's in 20+ years!

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I use a millimetre ruler to set the action for each string at the 12th fret after I have made sure the relief on the neck is spot on. I pretty much leave it once I am happy and I will tweak the truss rod when required. I tend to double check the setup every time I change the strings to be on the safe side.

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[quote name='LiamPodmore' timestamp='1354528134' post='1886896']
.... I actually tend to raise it a little before a big gig, because i know i'm gonna be running round and not concetrating on my technique so it limits the chance of fret buzz a bit.
[/quote]

I sometimes will raise the action for a studio session as some producers hate any type of fret buzz, even if it gets buried in the mix. I let them make that decision and if they want a cleaner sound I will quickly raise the action for them, go again and change it back when I get home.

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Adjusting the action? Once, a week or so after I've bought the instrument and got used to the overall feel I'll look at the neck relief, action and intonation. It won't get touched again unless I put a different brand/type/gauge of string on it.

Truss Rod? The only times I've ever had to adjust this is when I've bought second-hand instruments that have come from very different climates, or if I've changed the strings for something with a completely different tension. Again nothing is done until it's had a couple of days to settle down, I've found I get more stability and less adjustments needed this way.

Seasonal changes in my basses? I can't say I've really noticed. If there has been any movement it's too small to be worth bothering with. I'd rather let an instrument find it's own equilibrium than be constantly chasing a "perfect" set up and worrying about every little change of temperature and humidity.

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[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1354488903' post='1886676']
Once, when I buy the bass. After that, I've never had to bother with it. Most of my basses have been pretty settled and haven't needed any 'tweaking'... Maybe I've just been lucky?
[/quote]

This.

Even when I change strings I never have to change the action.

The only time i change the action is when i first get a bass, and then only if its not to my taste.

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[quote name='Green Alsatian' timestamp='1354538774' post='1887058']
Loctite 242 is ideal for this - it doesn't lock it up so tight as to be immovable, but certainly stops the grub screws from working loose.
[/quote]

I was just going to say to be careful which thread locking compound you go for. They come in different grades. For example "stud lock" is designed to stop a stud coming out even when you deliberately undo a "thread-locked" nut from it. You probably wouldn't want "stud lock on your bridge adjustments. The one you describe would seem ideal.

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I very rarely do it , but just yesterday I buggered about with the action as I'd had my Jazz set up with flatwounds and then decided Ididn't like them ( action did seem high) , whipped them off & put a proper set of strings on & gave each saddle a few turns - seemed to work and I haven't broken anything - Result!!

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