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Impedance etc

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23 minutes ago, Huge Hands said:

Must be on later models - I have two early ones (were known as the Retro 2x10 back then) and there is no switch.  You had to get a loom fitted to change them from 4ohm to 12ohm apparently? 

The switchs are fitted as a matter of course these days. It's now called the Two10S, I got BF to add the switch to my first 210.

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4 hours ago, Quilly said:

1809085148_4_8ohm.PNG.14b87d011b464e88f74a042d4d001c27.PNG

Why don't more speaker manufacturers do this?...seems like such a no-brainer. 

Because IMO it doesn't give you any advantage. There's a whole thread on this already.

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You don't even have to search out other threads, why it's not useful in general has been explained in this thread, repeatedly, including just a few posts before this one. The only reason to want a 4 ohm/8ohm 112 cab is to allow using it with a valve amp that needs a maximum 4 ohm load and with an SS amp that won't take a 4 ohm load. 

Edited by Bill Fitzmaurice

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I was running an 8 ohm valve amp into a 4 ohm cab for a while with no issues (the amp also has 16ohm outputs), I stopped because I'm just nervous of damaging the amp. I bough a 4/12 ohm switch for the cabinet in question (8 ohm isn't possible for the configuration of cab). My question is : Is it better to run 8 ohm amp into 12 ohm cab OR use the 16 ohm amp out into 12 ohm cab. My hunch is the latter is probably better for a valve amp to prevent damage to the transformer. Still not ideal for the valves but better than the current set up.  

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