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Headless Thunderbird


neepheid
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If it was me I'd remove as much of the neck pocket as small as you can while still giving enough wood the join the neck to. I'd also consider reshaping the back of the neck and the back of the neck pocket to give the best possible upper-fret access.

This Mike Lull T-Bass neck joint should give you an idea of what can be achieved with a bolt-on neck on the Thunderbird body:

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[quote name='BigRedX' post='1324120' date='Aug 2 2011, 12:38 PM']If it was me I'd remove as much of the neck pocket as small as you can while still giving enough wood the join the neck to. I'd also consider reshaping the back of the neck and the back of the neck pocket to give the best possible upper-fret access.

This Mike Lull T-Bass neck joint should give you an idea of what can be achieved with a bolt-on neck on the Thunderbird body:
[/quote]
Yep. It's my understanding that Matt intends to copy this design exactly.... right down to not having a plate.

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Good news - having consulted with my Dad, his router can plunge until the collet/nut is beginning to show below the base plate. Perfect.

Not so good news - the existing neck pocket is on a slight slope. Of course this was to make sure that the levitating monstrosity that is the 3 point bridge would be able to get down low enough. I'm pretty sure these saddles will be much lower down. Should I just take it level and shim if necessary, or try to replicate the slope?

Maybe it would be prudent to wait until the hardware arrives...

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[quote name='neepheid' post='1325093' date='Aug 2 2011, 07:07 PM']Good news - having consulted with my Dad, his router can plunge until the collet/nut is beginning to show below the base plate. Perfect.

Not so good news - the existing neck pocket is on a slight slope. Of course this was to make sure that the levitating monstrosity that is the 3 point bridge would be able to get down low enough. I'm pretty sure these saddles will be much lower down. Should I just take it level and shim if necessary, or try to replicate the slope?

Maybe it would be prudent to wait until the hardware arrives...[/quote]

I would totally make it level, especially with the new saddles. It's becoming a different animal, roll with it.

Edited by Count Bassie
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[quote name='Johnston' post='1325213' date='Aug 3 2011, 08:42 AM']+1

You could just shape it, keep it tilted and adjust the saddles. Or Level it and Shim if Necessary.

But don't the Epi T-bird Pickups sit rather proud of the body (Been ages since I played mine and can't be arsed going up stairs to look :) ). If you level it you might run the risk of the pickups not lowering enough to clear the strings.[/quote]

That's a good point - better screw them back in and have a look. If they're high as well then that extra plunge depth on my Dad's router may be called into action again on the pickup holes

I will factor this into my calculations, thanks :)

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Just been thinking about this some more...

Remember that the angle of the neck does more than just allow you to set the action while keeping the bridge saddles at a sensible height, it also changes where the headstock is in relation to the plane of the body and therefore will affect the "balance" of the neck especially when you are wearing the bass on a strap.

Now the Thunderbird isn't exactly the most well balanced of basses, so I would think carefully before changing the neck angle, as you might make it worse.

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[quote name='ogrimark' post='1325279' date='Aug 3 2011, 09:56 AM']Sorry, Bored at work and i have only just found this thread. I am loving it, Especially the graphic you did of the White with Black hardware. I am a big fan of the Tbird and am looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
cheers.[/quote]

Then I guess seeing it from the back won't help you return to your duties :)

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[quote name='BigRedX' post='1325246' date='Aug 3 2011, 09:38 AM']Just been thinking about this some more...

Remember that the angle of the neck does more than just allow you to set the action while keeping the bridge saddles at a sensible height, it also changes where the headstock is in relation to the plane of the body and therefore will affect the "balance" of the neck especially when you are wearing the bass on a strap.

Now the Thunderbird isn't exactly the most well balanced of basses, so I would think carefully before changing the neck angle, as you might make it worse.[/quote]
But this one is headless for that very reason. :)


Matt, if the neck pocket floor is angled, does this mean too that the front edge is also angled (to keep it perpendicular)? This may be an extra hassle when routing. Just take it flat and watch you depth.

Not a big fan of shims btw - you considerably lessen contact area and (if you believe in such thing ... like I do) lose out on sonic transference.

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[quote name='Johnston' post='1325407' date='Aug 3 2011, 06:17 AM']Just watch. I was told the back and front layers that give the T-bird the centre "Step" are just glued on Ply fashion and they have a habit of de laminating. If you go deep you might not have enough "Body" wood to hold the pickups securely.




But if he makes his template a wedge shape to allow for the angle of dangle won't it keep the front edge angled to suit the neck :)[/quote]

That makes sense, the original neck pocket being a right-angle relationship between the floor/wall of it. It is, right? Anyway good idea to hold on it- why have to go re-routing deeper holes for pickups- increasing your 'margin of screw-up'? Less is better, as most always...

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I'm going to have to get scientific on this I think. Once I have the bridges then I'll be able to determine their min/max height from the top of the body, the height of the pickups and that information combined with the lateral positions of these points and the depth of the neck heel + frets will determine the depth of the neck pocket and the angle (if any) I need to do this right.

Warning noted on the Epi T-bird centre step - I suspected that would be the case.

I think I'm going to need a new battery for my calliper.

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I hate waiting for stuff when other stuff is predicated upon its arrival! Thomann have been taunting me with status updates this morning (the package is in Köln, the package has left Köln). In the meantime, I have been beheading the Thunderbird logo on the pickguard. Good old Humbrol enamel model paint, ahh the childhood memories :) The rose-tinted glasses blocked out the 6 hour time between coats though :)

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Calliper still working - Here are the measurements:

Pickups (when screwed in as low as I would want to) protrude 9mm from the surface.
Neck heel is 30-31 deep (not including frets)
Current neck pocket is 17-18mm deep (due to neck angle)

Won't know for sure until I get the bridges but from the info so far I think I could do a straight (non angled) neck pocket because in an 18mm deep pocket the neck would protrude 12-13mm. That might even possibly be too high, necessitating a deeper neck pocket by a few mm.

The scheming continues...

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[quote name='Johnston' post='1326053' date='Aug 3 2011, 07:53 PM']If it were me I would get a bit of spare lumber.

Test your Neck template (also gives a valuable practice run) . Screw on your bridge and neck and straight edge it and see what gap between body and strings are even glue on or screw on some 10mm dowel to represent the pups.[/quote]

That sounds just the ticket.

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Hardware's here. Slight raised blood pressure moment when the person the courier claimed had signed for it had no recollection of doing so. Found it somewhere else at work (phew).



Looking good (nice and proper black, none of this "cosmo" black rubbish, eh Gotoh?), unfortunately I have band practice tonight and a gig on Saturday, so I won't be able to muck about with it much until Sunday.

Also, the Humbrol enamel didn't take to the pickguard, came out/off when I made an attempt to level it off, hmph.

Edited by neepheid
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[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1328638' date='Aug 5 2011, 12:54 PM']I like that colour. Of course the problem is that it does come off with repeated use. I like the look of that hardware anyway. Looks nice.[/quote]

I'm sure it's lovely if everything's the same. I'm just bitter because I've been sold cosmo black stuff on the basis that it's proper black before and got an unpleasant surprise :)

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[quote name='neepheid' post='1328650' date='Aug 5 2011, 01:03 PM']I'm sure it's lovely if everything's the same. I'm just bitter because I've been sold cosmo black stuff on the basis that it's proper black before and got an unpleasant surprise :)[/quote]

That's a shame. I remember the WD music website at least does state under it's gotoh hardware page that it is not actually black hardware.

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