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First I write shortly about speaker load and amp, then I will offer you a possible, if not a working solution.

Amp can push volts and amperes to a load (speaker). If the load is optimal, the most volts and amperes (multiplied together: watts) from the amp go to the speaker. Now the Ohm's law tells, that current equals volts divided by impedance (I = U / Z). When the impedance gets smaller, the current rises.

Sometimes people think that lowering the impedance brings you more volume. Although the amp may see less impedance it may be not powerful enough to push that load anymore. Think it like that you go to a gym. There are two springs that you need to push. The other is short and thick (lower impedance) and the other is longer but more slender. Because of the thickness of the spring wire the shorter is harder to push. Yes, it would only need shorter distance to be pushed together but it is uncomfortably heavy for the user.

What happens in the amp is that the current starts to rise and it heats up the power section. If the parts can handle heat, they survive, if not, you get lots of melt metal. It not uncommon, that the power section pushes less power to the smaller (and harder) load. So you get less volume.

 

My slightly unorthodox option to your two cabinet issue starts from opening the cabinets. If the elements are wired in parallel (two 8 ohm elements in parallel = 4 ohms), you might change their connection to series (two 8 ohm elements in series = 16 ohms). Then it would be easy to just use one or two cabinets in the amp.

I suppose that your amp is not tube. Tubes love exact matching. Usually transistors like similar or larger impedance in their outputs.

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2 minutes ago, Kamiel said:

How is that Little Bastard?  I've always wondered if I want one!

I love it! It’s great at home as you can get a lovely tone without being too loud but it’s also great (with efficient cabs and PA support) on a gig because you get a glorious broken up valve phatness on stage which just envelops everything (in a good way!)

The EQ isn’t particularly versatile but I didn’t buy it for that, I have an ABM and Rootmaster of I need versatility :)

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imageproxy.php?img=&key=4b3806f48250f55aMy stack 🙂

The amp is a Laney pro Bass (apparently as used by Krist Novoselick on Bleach). The cabs are unusual. I used to have a huge 1x18" that was like moving a washing machine around. My youngest brother gave me the Phoenix which is a PH-2 from British Strings Limited, it's loaded with a pair of 12" Celestions.

The top cab I made myself using a pair of McKenzie 12" speakers from a mate. The tweeter cab is surprisingly effective and uses two high power horn tweeters from Maplin. Set up like this the feet of the top cab 'lock' in the handle of the bottom one.

I don't know for sure if the head is 100W or 150W but it doesn't take any prisoners...

Laney Pro Bass 2.JPG

 

Edit! This is my original rig - at my first gig, up on a chair. It's a Sound City, supposedly 30 or 50 watts. I turned it into a separate head and monitor wedge, but it got knicked. There's a guitar version that belongs top one of my brothers in my dad's loft.

image.png.c56ae1e8c99261bb5b2af245b13139c5.png

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 02/09/2018 at 14:46, bassmayhem said:

They are Vovox Sonorus; the best cable I've found out there so far. Vovox won't even call them cables: "Klangleiter" is the term used. :) 
They really do difference; they let EVERYTHING through. We had a cable shootout a few years ago, with a lot of different cables: everything from crap to expensive. "Is there any REALLY expensive cable here?" was a question asked. I offered my 20 ft Sonorus for a test. The test leader connected it and started to laugh in a very bullying way. "IT BUZZES!!!" All the crowd laughed, until I said: "It is your shitty P-bass that buzzes, but noone can hear it with all those lousy cables you use." Well, the guys with lousy cables chose to believe their cheap cables were better. None of my basses buzz through my cables. Never and ever. And - your fingers won't smell like old rubber... things when you have rolled them after a gig... ;) 

Vovox are really the best cables, I also use them as patch and they make a difference in sound

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Still got the Ampeg Pf350, but now I have a shiny new BF Two10 to play it through!

Weirdly, although I know the Ampeg is the weak link in this chain (my playing aside), I kinda like it, so am in no rush to upgrade.

Both my basses have had a proper set up and feel great.  Currently quite content.

 

2512C213-4C6C-443A-8052-230AF038CC82.jpeg

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15 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:

Still got the Ampeg Pf350, but now I have a shiny new BF Two10 to play it through!

Weirdly, although I know the Ampeg is the weak link in this chain (my playing aside), I kinda like it, so am in no rush to upgrade.

Both my basses have had a proper set up and feel great.  Currently quite content.

 

2512C213-4C6C-443A-8052-230AF038CC82.jpeg

Really think I *need* a vertical Two10 in my collection. Need.

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2 hours ago, Jus Lukin said:

Hey, guys... I think the chick with the big boobs is smiling at me...

I call her 'Lola ' because she also has big balls 🙂

<edit> and no that's not my carefully adjusted scoop sound setting!

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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On 01/04/2019 at 14:31, blyn said:

Nice and portable rig;

AG700 + DB112*2 and my 69 JB

IMG_4820.thumb.jpg.44f60ebae0c725bf85600ad1f0d2ece2.jpg

 

How do the db112s cope with the 700 watt head please? My cabs are the tweed version, they’re staying but I’m thinking of changing my amp.

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On ‎03‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 00:09, scalpy said:

How do the db112s cope with the 700 watt head please? My cabs are the tweed version, they’re staying but I’m thinking of changing my amp.

AG700 is the best Aguilar head for the DB cabs IMHO.

DB751 and TH500 tends to be to harsh in the upper mids.

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