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Jazzjames

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Everything posted by Jazzjames

  1. I ended up selling it (with the issue clearly advertised). Couldn’t find any obvious dry joins or any components that looked worse for wear. It’s a very old CD player now, it did well to make it that far!
  2. Thanks all for the input. The volume pot is indeed directly soldered to a pcb. I’m gonna leave it alone as the joints are super tiny and fiddly to get at. I’d be worried of overheating and damaging everything. The bass works just fine as it is, I just get a bit sick of the volume pot sitting up so proud from the body.
  3. I thought this to be the case but just wanted to check. Thanks!
  4. Dear all, I have a Lakland 55-01 with a Glockenklang 3 bad preamp in it. I mainly play the bass in passive mode and wanted to know if I could swap the push/pull function of the volume pot to allow the bass to be in passive mode when the pot is in the downward position. At the moment I need to pull it up for it to be in passive mode. Thanks in advance for your help. James
  5. I run my upright with realist pickup straight into my AER amp one and it sounds great. No need for additional EQ. I think tomlyne meant an EQ is necessary in a doubling (upright/BG) situation.
  6. Not that looks matter too much, but it doesn't exactly scream high quality, in my opinion.
  7. The SVT-7 Pro is a big boy for class D. It’s not heavy, but it’s bigger than most other class D heads. see photo. I transport mine in an ABS case and it’s probably 10kg cased. An easy one hand carry but if I need to take something in the back pack or in the bass case, my Quilter BB800 is much more portable. Regarding EQ, the EQ is actually very versatile and the ultra low and ultra hi switches mean that you can drastically alter your sound from classic SVT sounds to modern fast hitting sounds in a second. I leave the Ultra Lo engaged 100% of the time, because it just sounds right that way. The compressor works super well, too. Tonally it’s just perfect for me, and the transformer tube DI sounds a lot beefier than the DI of my Aguilar TH500 did. The Aguilar wasn’t bad in isolation, but the Ampeg’s DI sounds fantastic. I use it pre EQ if sending to engineer and using a speaker, or post EQ if using IEMs.
  8. Have you read the 7 Pro mega thread on TB? As far as I know, they are on H - -revision on the board. As long as you get one of those, you’re good. I bought mine at the beginning of the pandemic, and has therefore seen relatively infrequent use, but I’ve been extremely happy with it. Mine has only ever seen an 8 ohm load, and it hasn’t missed a beat. Sounds absolutely great (if you like the Ampeg thing, which I do), and has volume and slam to spare. Mine arrived in a Yamaha branded box. Yamaha own Ampeg now, and they don’t put out gear that breaks down all the time.
  9. I must say that the CASA 104 cab is very nicely made and appointed by nice handles, corners and control plate. I don't care where anything is made either; it's just about what quality standard is set by the manufacturer. I just can't get along with yellow speakers, hence why I got the CASA. (Looks past computer at KRK Rokit monitors 😂)
  10. I recently bought a Markbass CASA 104 and it was surprisingly hard to get a hold of one. Maybe they were already ramping down production to make way for this new series of cabs and combos?
  11. When a cab makes an Ampeg 810 look lightweight, you know it must be pretty serious! I had a PJB CAB 67 for a while and it's top quality stuff. GLWTS.
  12. I accept that the pf500 is not exactly the best amp in its class. I wouldn’t buy one, and didn’t, but if I had to either replace the amp or the cab to maximise volume, I’d be looking for a second cab, or replacing the BB2 with something bigger. Piling loads of watts into a small cab can give you the required SPL, but a modest amount of watts into a bigger more efficient cab is in my opinion also a legitimate strategy. It’s a complex issue but I feel that many players these days are gigging under-speakered. They have a 500-800w amp which has more than enough headroom and power, but they limit themselves with small, compact speakers. Don’t get me wrong, it’s great that they exist for smaller/quieter gigs. FYI I use my AER amp one for the majority of my professional engagements and love it! But obviously I don’t need loads of SPL on these gigs if I’m happily using a 1x10 combo! But if you want that big effortless sound at higher volumes, you need speakers to move some air.
  13. Only you can judge what is necessary for your needs, but I recently moved on my Fearless F112 (similar to your Barefaced) as it didn’t work as a one cab solution for my needs. I was driving it with 600w at 8ohms, which I guess was getting a good amount of the cab’s potential. These modern 3 way cabs are incredible, but you can’t expect miracles from what are compact cabs. Going for a more powerful amp will unlock a bit more volume, but probably not lots. If I were you I’d get a second BF cab, or get a bigger cab which shifts more air. I went for a Markbass 4x10 and it is a different level of oomph. I disagree with this. If you add a second cab, the amp will operate at 500w, not at the current 250w with the 8 ohm load, and, much more importantly, you will have another cab shifting more air. 500w is plenty for most gigs if you’ve got enough speaker. And to say it will get worse… 😂
  14. I have an AER Amp One and it is shockingly loud for its size. It has a good on board compressor and sounds great with all my basses. Highly recommended. I’m sure the other AER combos are worth a look, too, as they are a bit bigger and may provide exactly what you’re looking for. Don’t underestimate the Amp One though, it does the business.
  15. Update: I acquired one of these CAB 67s and took it out for what turned out to be a pretty loud gig with relatively hard hitting drummer last night in medium-sized but loud room. It kicks hard, and has a great sound stage, making the bass sound a feel 3D. I had to turn the bass knob way back on the amp compared to how I use the Greenboy F112 (amp is an SVT 7 Pro) because I was relatively close to the back wall, but it was easy to get a clear sound. I didn't really have to think about it all night, which is what I want from a setup. I got the Ampeg warmth and baked in sound from the amp, and a good responsive, even reproduction from the cab. It is heavier than some cabs, but the three handles plus the wheels made it easy to move around. At 24kg it's really not difficult to lift up or carry one handed for short distances, for example over a doorstep. Even though it's taller than an F112, it takes up a similar amount of space in the car, and I was able to fit the cab, amp, pedal board and cable bag into the boot of my Leon fine just as usual.
  16. Can't decide if you're being sarcastic or not, but my F112 is seriously impressive!
  17. I already have a Fearless F112 which I do really enjoy, just wondering if the PJB would have any advantages, whether they be tone, volume, punch... The cabs are not dissimilar in size, and the weight of the PJB is still very manageable.
  18. Thank you for your replies. Regarding F112 vs Cab 67, the combines surface area of the 6x7” drivers is about 70% more than the F112’s, and only 20% smaller than that of a 4x10. I know surface area isn’t the only spec to consider, but this cab does pack a lot of speaker area into a small(ish) space.
  19. Dear all, I just saw this new Phil Jones Bass 6x7" cab, but can't find any info about players' experiences with it. I'm currently running an Ampeg SVT 7 Pro into Greenboy F112 with good results, but I'm just curious about this cab from PJB. Do you think it would be an improvement in any area over the F112 or just bigger and bulkier?! Thanks in advance for your help. James p.s. I also posted this on TB but as of yet, no replies.
  20. Sold! Was a nice preamp. If you dan find one, go for it!
  21. Are you gigging (corona aside) or is it just for playing at home? If the latter, I’d be looking to get a decent small combo (1x10”) or so like a Genz Benz Shuttle 3.0 10T. I used one for many years (live and for practicing) and with the tilt back feature you can get a really full, lively and bright sound. I loved that little thing. Loud, too! If you’re only buying a cab for use at home, a lot of the suggestions above are too big and will just dominate small rooms.
  22. Good call. I’ll open it up and have a look. The NAD amplifier I use with the CD player had a few dry joints. Thanks!
  23. Thanks for the reply! Sounds about right. I’ll look into it and see if there’s a diagram etc. Normally NAD have pretty well written service manuals and even a relative idiot like me can work out what’s what.
  24. Hi everyone, Not really bass related, but I’m not a member of any audiophile forums so maybe an amp expert or similar can shed some light on my issue. I have an old NAD 5240 CD player and it takes 10-20 minutes to warm up before it will work. For the first 5 minutes there’s no sound, then it starts to come to the amp, but it’s very distorted, and gradually the distortion fades and then it sounds good and works as normal. During the warm up phase it’s def playing the CD. I’ve ruled out the RCA cables, and I’ve tried the fixed and variable outputs and it’s the same issue with both outputs. Any idea why it may be doing this? I opened it up today and there is some soot/discolouration on the inside of the case above where the puts are and in a couple of areas. Nothing on the board looks obviously burned out. Once the CD player is running properly it’s a little warm above those areas (case on) but it’s not hot. Thanks in advance for any tips! James
  25. There are plenty of things out there which are a better buy nowadays. I used to have the full Yamaha rig: BBT500, 2x10, 4x10. Don’t miss it. I don’t remember the cabs being light weight!
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