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WHUFC BASS
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Posts posted by WHUFC BASS
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I've got one of these. Great little amps and that's a bargain price.
GLWTS
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16 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:
The bridge saddles and rounded pickups are identifiers, just can’t remember what they mean 😂
Nice finish, too. That would be great with a roasted maple neck.
70's era Japanese bass, more than likely Ibanez or something. I had one similar in sunburst too, made in the Matsumoko factory. Another giveaway is the noticeably thinner neck pocket.
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This used to belong to me. I can attest that it's a superb bass and only for the fact I already own two Spectors I would never have sold it. It's got a great sound and the comment about the EMGs is bang on.
The ding on the fretboard was done when I had it but it no way affects the playibility of the bass.
Someone is going to get an absolute bargain.
GLWTS
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16 hours ago, AndyTravis said:
Bought this to sing…I will not be singing anymore.
Something happened, didn't it? 😂
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1 minute ago, sky said:
nice! i saw a really batter sound city 4x12 come up locally for £75 and had to fight off the urge to get it!
Was it the square or angled cab? I had the square cab and it sounded immense.
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12 hours ago, sky said:
Nice! I had a Park valve bass head and Sound City 4x12 bass cab back in the 80s along with a 62 re-issue Precision in identical colours. Sounded amazing.
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Bought some Speakon cables from Iain. Easy transaction and quick delivery 👍🏻
Top drawer mate
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Was never a huge fan of Ricks, the dual-truss rod, the quite frankly hopeless bridge and just the look of them (despite Lemmy playing one) until I saw this video. I love Eddie & The Hot Rods and this is one of their most underrated tracks ...
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26 minutes ago, pst62 said:
I'll take the Panzerkampfwagen IV. 🙂
Can I be the gunner, pretty please? 😂
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1 hour ago, BassAdder60 said:
So guys … what about BBOT bridges ?? 🙄😉😂
More importantly, are they good for metal?
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1 hour ago, BigRedX said:
No of course it hasn't. You'd need to do it with hundreds of instruments, and you still wouldn't have a definitive answer because every piece of wood is different, so there is no way of telling if it was actually the body wood that was making a difference and not some other variance in the construction.
So that kind of puts the onus on the advocates of tonewood to prove that what they're saying is actually true. Until there is definitive proof that wood makes a difference to the tone of a solid body electric guitar or bass, it's nothing more than a meaningless statement. It appears to have become an accepted fact that's peddled by luthiers and guitar manufacturers when the reality is there's absolutely no proof to back up their statements.
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1 hour ago, tauzero said:
The same way that they know that an expensive HDMI cable will give a more vibrant picture with better colours than a cheap one?
Has anyone carried out an experiment to find out whether those claiming to discern the sounds of different woods can accurately identify the wood?
They have for guitars yes and believe me, nobody got it right. The sad fact with all of us (and I include myself in this too) is that we listen with our eyes in many cases. I think luthiers have peddle myths about tonewood that simply don't stand up to scrutiny for electric instruments. At the end of the day, it's an electrical induction circuit.
A test that busts the myth of tonewood:
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10 minutes ago, JoeEvans said:
No man is an island.
What about the Isle of Man?
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8 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:
Nah, not buying it. How bodies and necks interact is fundamental (if you excuse the pun). Hundreds of years of instrument luthiery will attest to this.
Take wood out of the equation and replace it with either nothing, or something synthetic and consistent, and yes, you’re starting from a level playing field.
Once wood is in there, stuff changes.
How bodies and necks interact is fundamental - of course, I'm not disputing that but as I outlined above, the neck angle, fretboard integrity, fret integrity are what should be taken into consideration. Not the wood type. The original argument was about Mo Foster's new ebony fingerboard remember?
"Once wood is in there, stuff changes" - of course it will. On acoustic instruments, that's not something I'm disputing, it will absolutely make a difference to the sound of drums, woodwind instruments, acoustic guitars and other stringed instruments.
The point I'm trying to make is that wood type or "tonewood" isn't a thing.
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18 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:
Hang on - are you actually suggesting the resonant properties of wood has no effect on how the strings behave when plucked? Have you never played an acoustically dead bass before?I'm saying that wood and wood type has no affect on the sound of an instrument with an enclosed electric induction circuit. The video above proves that.
An acoustically dead bass as you call it has nothing to do with the wood and more to do with the following:
Neck angleWarped Neck
Loose frets
Uneven fretboard
strings - their quality and the way they're cut than the wood. Scott Devine touches on this phenomenon in this video:
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35 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:
Im not talking about adding to tone. I’m talking about taking away from it. Knots in wood, air pockets, grain… all these are variables that can cause a clash at specific frequencies and which can kill fundamentals and overtones.Do you have any evidence for that? Not saying you're wrong, but I'd like to see some evidence.
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1 hour ago, wateroftyne said:
Of course wood makes a difference. Resonance (or lack of) is important.
This video would suggest it doesn't and until I see a test that completely destroys these findings I'm going with the whole tonewood thing is snakeoil and marketing
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54 minutes ago, peteb said:
IOf course, he was completely mistaken as we know from this thread that the choice of wood and using a hi-mass bridge make absolutely no difference to the tone of a bass...
The wood certainly doesn't. I've yet to see any convincing evidence that wood type can make a difference to an electrical induction system that converts sound into an electronic noise signal.
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1 hour ago, MichaelDean said:
I do!
What if I want a note to ring out for 2/4/8/16 bars? I need the sustain for the music I play. I don't want a thumpy tone of flats and foam. Never have. Not sure if I'd even want to play the music that needs that tone.
Trust me mate, a Hi-mass bridge won't get you there, you need either a 35" scale neck, a multi-scale neck, or a some kind of sustain pedal.
And if you own the Dingwall in your avatar you should be able to get that kind of sustain ... and guess what? No BBOT, Badass or Hipshot in sight ....
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I started bringing my football boots to West Ham games back in the 80s in the vague hope of getting a game. I
On 01/09/2023 at 15:57, uk_lefty said:I used to take my kit when watching my older brothers play (mens) hockey, just in case. I was about 9 when I started doing that. Then started getting games aged 11. Never thought about that from a musical point of view but might start taking my bass with me to gigs.
Dude ...
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Things that will make a difference to the sound of your bass ....
1. Pickup type
2. Pickup placement on your bass
3. EQ (from the amp or pedal)
4. Speaker and cab configuration
5. Strings and string type
6. Number of strings
7. Technique (finger, pick, slap etc.)
8. Scale length of bass neck (especially for 5-strings and down-tuners)
Things that will make no difference whatsoever to the sound of your bass
1. Body, neck, and fingerboard woods
2. Bridges (including type of metal used).
3. The colour
4. The strap
5. Your haircut/beard/tattoos
Bridges are purely functional, they anchor the strings to the body and should allow enough length to properly intonate the notes on the fingerboard. If the bridge you currently have won't lengthen or shorten the string then MAYBE it's worth looking at a replacement. You can argue all day long about sustain but who really needs that much sustain as a bass player? String through the body MAY produce slightly more sustain but I refer to my previous statement.
As for tone, in a blindfold test, could anybody really discern whether a track was recorded with a badass, BBOT or Hipshot? Brass, Aluminum, or alloy? I very much doubt it.
If you aren't happy with the colour of the hardware then fill your boots, that's a perfectly legitimate reason for swapping out the bridge and tuners etc. but the bottom line is, if they're functional, there's really no need to swap them out IMO.
If anybody is willing to do a frequency response graph test by using the same bass, same amp setup/DI setup and strings and can demonstrate the frequency differences to swapping out BBOT for a hi-mass bridge then I'll listen but again I'll say, in the grand scheme of things, the differences are negligible IMO.
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Came across this one today and really not sure what to make of it ... I'm guessing it's some kind of custom bass. The fingerboard is intriguing, not sure what wood that is. The hardware looks like decent 80s Schaller hardware and the pickups appear to be Kent Armstrong single coils.
The neck is bowed so this would be a real gamble as to whether it'd ever function properly though.
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These are great mics and brilliant for hi-gain guitar amps combined with an sm57
GlWTS
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I need this bass. Just splashed out on a TL5 but I'd sell a kidney for one of these 😢
Must resist
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Kent Armstrong Hot Vintage P Bass Pickup Alnico £35 Posted - *SOLD*
in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
Posted
I've used these on a few P-basses and they're great. Very hot output and great tone too.