Christine

On 15/03/2020 at 18:55, Billy Apple said:

Uncle Jim Tortex are the bomb. Nylon!? Are you ill or something?

I remember the pre -tortex days of snapping and slippy picks.

Somethings do change for the better

Sorry, dragging up an old topic of conversation

I wonder how a thin spring steel pick would work with a decent grip?

The block plane was originally made for flattening butchers blocks, hence the name or so legend has it . If the use is endgrain then the mouth size is irrelevant as there are no chips to break, it's all short grain shavings. The really cool thing about these planes is that the bevel on the iron is uppermost so the cutting geometry is variable a shallow angle (25 degreed iron vevel and iron angle combined)) for endgrain or a steeper one(40-45) for long grain or a very steep one (50-55) for very difficult woods like east Indian Satinwood. You don't need a regrind for the angle change just hone at the different angle, that's all you need but a regrind will more than likely be needed if you need to hone at a shallower angle  than the last hone if that makes sense.

If you're hollowing you need to change your planing technique. At the start of the cut press down on the front of the plane and transfer the pressure as the plane moves forward. You don't actually push the plane as such but lock your arms to your sides and rock forwards keeping your eye over the mouth of the plane. It should be done quite slowly so you keep absolute control over the shaving, it should come off full width for the whole length of the wood once it's flat. An hour practising should see you set for life. Precise work needs a different mindset to hanging a kitchen door, speed comes from getting it right first time not doing it quickly, gossamer thin shavings you can see through are what you should be seeing. Once you can do that (and it's not hard) you can do anything

I think it’s only missing the adjustable mouth, not the end of the world on a block plane , you may find that you’ll have better results with a slightly steeper honing angle so it acts more like a scraper which isn’t a problem at all, far from it

11 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Er, no. I managed to post the wrong link. It's a block plane that I think from other pictures on the net is a 60 1/2. The link is now correct for the one I bought 😉 

They will be on the bench when I get them and have time to Christinise them. Be prepared for a series of what do I do next PMs 😉

I think that is a 220 but I’m not sure 

20 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Right, the no.5 is mine!

Any ideas what sort / number this one is?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Record-No-5-Woodwork-Plane-Made-in-England/184181780724?hash=item2ae216f0f4:g:h~AAAOSwJJxeUVIU

It's a No 05, 14" long and 2" wide, is that what you meant?

That is a nice plane, just what I was on about, see the fork that fits into the adjustment wheel, cast not bent steel. It will clean up nice but more importantly it will be better steel than new ones. Set it up well and it will be a joy for life 😀

Ed King used to use a coin with a Fender Jazz for Lynyrd Skynyrd's Pronounced album,  a dime whatever that is

26 minutes ago, Paul S said:

Well, I own two Gibsons and I like them lots.

 

So there.

 

You and me be mates! I have two too and I love mine. When they're good they're brilliant

17 minutes ago, Cato said:

I seem to recall they were about 50p each when I first started playing guitar, 30 odd years ago, so 7 quid for 12 doesn't seem too exorbitant.

Back then they used to have the h for hard or possibly heavy on them, so they've been doing it for a while.

I also remember that they weren't great for bass, the hard plastic was too brittle and the picks used to chip as I was playing, until there was just a jagged stub left, although that might have been down to my rather aggressive beginners technique.

These things are great with a bass

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dunlop-418P-73-Tortex-Standard-Player/dp/B00HEKIKYC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Jim+Dunlop+Tortex+standard+guitar+picks+-+.73mm&qid=1584275657&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-8

Normally I would suggest something like car boot sales etc but not an option at the moment. Something to think about with ebay planes is that the obviously much older ones 1960s and earlier (Record and Stanley) are actually better built and the castings have had time to settle so will remain flatter. Little details like cast adjusters instead of the rubbish pressed steel on the modern ones, they still work but without the finesse of the old ones

Both good choices, go for a Stanley 60 1/2 and either a Record or Stanley No5 unless you want something more exotic

I've got a link in the sharpening thread somewhere on how to set them up

On 17/02/2020 at 19:10, rubis said:

Thank you kindly folks, I got some of the wool felt underlay stuff on the way home from work today. 

It looks just like the stuff Christine recommended above (thanks again)

I think I will fart (probably the wrong word) about with it, holding it in place with double sided tape, until it sounds right, as per the advice above, and then use up the spray glue I have left from telexing for a more permanent job.

How did it turn out?

We used to make prototype speaker cabinets for the HiFi World magazine years ago, the designer used to specify that underlay

More importantly are you able to fill the holes in your build with something that fits?

You can get a good build up with Danish oil, we used to get something similar to French polish with it. We used Rustins. A couple or three coats just wet and let it soak in before wiping it off just to seal then after that put it on quite wet but nowhere near flooded and leave it for about 20 minutes until it started getting slightly tacky then using the same cloth you put it on with rub over it a bit like using a French polishing rubber until it was a smear free then let it dry overnight. Depending on the wood about 5 - 10 coats. The trick is getting the tackiness right before polishing, tackiness probably isn't the right word, thickening is probably what I mean

Maintenance, just the occasional wipe with teak oil

Edit, no sanding at all apart from an occasional denib before a coat

If I were you I'd draw it all out full scale along with all the fittings first, it will show you exactly what you can work with. If I remember rightly a Fender neck pocket is about 15-16mm, I guess the minimum thickness you need to screw to would be about 12mm so an estimated overall body thickness on 28mm minimum as long as everything else can be mounted too. Probably you'd be better off being thicker than that, there's a reason bolt on bodies are as thick as they are, anything over 35mm would probably work along with a decent neck mounting plate?

It just evolved really, it was pretty much what we decided we'd learn for our first gig and we just added to it or subtracted depending on how much time we had. It was a bit of a no brainer as we played just the one bands material and it was all the most popular stuff.

The only thing we ever argued about was the order of the first 3 songs, I wanted to play the same ones every time as I could do them on automatic pilot otherwise I'd freeze and flamingo up. After the first time I did that they let me have my way

I was until a couple of weeks ago in a Banshees covers band, we just did the Scream (first album) with some hits thrown in for good measure. Just kept it simple

3 hours ago, rubis said:

I am in the process of making as sure as I can that there will be no leaks or rattles on this cab, an I have another advice question for you all please. 

What would you recommend to use for lining the inside of the cabinet?

I have four squares of egg-box style foam lying around that I was going to use on a guitar cab, so I tried that in there, but I think it's a bit too thick. It will lie very close to the slotted holes on the front baffle, and I worry that they would not be able to function as they are intended to. 

I then thought I could cut up to completely cover the back panel, and use something thinner an less obtrusive on the sides? 

Is there any kind of best practice involved with lining cabs?

What's the best stuff to use?

This is very good

https://www.carpet-underlay-shop.co.uk/products/42oz-wool-felt-carpet-underlay?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7aPyBRChARIsAJfWCgLynaEOwvFjRporrkF8Z863-a6Q6kvRIk758FvbSNwQlRHRnHFGUh4aAvX8EALw_wcB

Well what a shame, Mike was always very friendly and helpful, a real gentleman

Don't know, it's certainly not what I post

3 hours ago, Richard R said:

Don't rush the man. Trees grow slowly in North Wales.

I think @owen needs to actually plant one first

I honestly think when this does get underway it's going to be a classy build

25 minutes ago, Soledad said:

May I add - the one surface that is reference/datum is the back (the non-bevel face). This must be dead true to the stone. You can ignore all other chisel faces and surfaces. So the back face must be dead flat to the clamp and the clamp must be true to the axis of the grinding stone. 
I'm more familiar with the Tormek but I think they are about the same. If the chisel is even slightly out of perpendicular, or if it isn't exactly flat to the clamp, you'll get this error. In practice adjust the angle of the chisel in the clamp (tiny amounts mind) and adjust left and right clamp screw (slightly tighten one, release the other to compensate) - in your pic the right screw needs tightening, left off a bit. OR, the chisel needs a tads rotation anti-clock in the clamp.
Basically you are a lot closer than it looks, small tweaks will get you there and narrow chisel tend to be more tricky.

The reason I say to check the top surface is because if it isn't parallel it will tend to cause the narrow chisel to clamp on a tilt instead of the bottom surface (back as you rightly say)

Narrow blades like that are more difficult admittedly. What to check Look at the casting on the guide, make sure that is perfectly flat on both surfaces. When you put the chisel in the guide, spend a couple of extra seconds setting the guides clamping height on both sides first so when you finally put it in position and clamp the chisel it is being clamped with an even force not one side more than the other. Check the chisel itself to make sure the top surface is parallel to the bottom one. The chisel sides are probably tapered so you cant use them as a reference only the bottom face

Glad you bought a grinder, honestly it's the one tool I wouldn't be without in the workshop. It really does make sharpening easy, a pleasure in itself that can be used as a means of briefly relaxing away from the concentration of the actual work not as a means of adding more stress to the day

The warm weather is coming, you'll get more done then

On 02/10/2019 at 16:50, owen said:

It's getting real. 

The question is, has this got any realer yet? Is realer a word?

20 hours ago, Jimothey said:

I’ve started trying to use recycled wood as you can’t get much more eco friendly than that maybe it’s to offset my carbon footprint as I drive a transit for work and have a Ford Ranger as my own vehicle I better watch out I don’t have people gluing themselves to my front door 😬

Recycling is best in this game, the very best we can do anyway although finding wood with the characteristics and dimensions you need is quite difficult. Reuse is even better, something I've noticed you do a couple of times, far better to refill a bottle than recycle it if you get my drift.

@honza992 what is the binding, white plastic and Rocklite? Nice