Phil_T

Ian bought my CTM 30 and was a nice chap to deal with.

Sold my Jazz bass to bass - very easy transaction. Cheers Paul.

I've always loved this bass line but never seen a decent transcription of it so I've had a go at it myself. The bass was split from the mix using Lalal.ai and it did a pretty good job so it's quite easy to hear. I've very little experience at transcribing by ear so I will be off in places no doubt and I've even less experience of writing sheet music so my efforts are probably quite terrible. For a start, it should be in a key which would omit the need for many of the accidentals. If anyone wants to chip in with note correction or sorting out the formatting of the score then please feel free. The guitar pro files are attached together with the stems. The transcription covers the intro and first main section of bass. I haven't done the second section yet but it's pretty much just a mash-up of the first one. There are a few more little variations here and there that I need to work on but, to my ears at least, it's not far off. Let me know what you think. 07 - Primal Scream - Loaded bass split by lalalai.m4a 07 - Primal Scream - Loaded no bass split by lalalai.m4a Loaded - Primal Scream.gp Loaded - Primal Scream.pdf

Would running an 8ohm cab off a 4ohm tap at low volumes be a problem? I've seen plenty of discussions on this topic and the general consensus is that it's not advisable at gig volumes but I've never been clear on whether the volume is a factor. I have an SVT style amp that I picked up cheap which only has 2 or 4ohmn outputs but I only have single 8ohm cab at home for practice and I've never been sure if I run the risk if damaging the amp. The amp is a Bugera so it's possibly not the most robust thing even under perfect operating conditions.

Yes, certainly NW Guitars is basically the same stuff. I went with the Manchester guy because he was the only one who had the surf green and the light tint lacquer. I think NWG only do an amber tint which would have been too strong for my purposes. If you're thinking of giving it go, my advice based on very limited experience would be to get two cans of both colour and clear for a bass body and puts on lots of clear coats - it is very easy to sand through the clear even if you're careful, particularly on edges. You can just about get way with one can of colour if you're only doing a body but if you c@ck something up and need to respray an area you'll soon run out.

Yes, the base colour is pretty much what shows through on the worn patch above the bridge pickup. Everywhere else is mellowed down with a fairly thin coat of the tinted lacquer which is then sealed with clear lacquer so you don't sand through the tinted stuff when you're flatting it. The grubby look comes from using slightly more tint around the bridge area and also - and I kid you not - slathering the whole thing is black liquid shoe polish which then gets wiped off but it seeps into the hairline cracks in the lacquer. The lacquer checking is done by heating up a bit of the body at a time with a hair dryer and then spaying it with pipe freeze. You don't have much control and it tends to create very fine crazing but it looks quite effective It's an enjoyable process and I'm spraying in my garden to avoid being poisoned (nitro is nasty stuff) so it's difficult to perfect paint and this relic process just takes all the stress out of it - you know that if you get a blemish during spraying you can easily disguise it when you come to do the relic treatment.

Thanks - I did it myself using rattle cans from Manchester Guitar Tech. I'm no expert painter but it's fairly easy and obviously the relic finish hides any less than perfect paint. I was inspired by following this thread a while back:

the pickup covers arrived, so one more shot for completeness:

Sonic blue is my favourite colour for a bass but I have a precision in it that I did a couple of years ago so this one is in my next favourite colour.

Just finished putting this together using a warmoth body and neck. Warmoth Alder body with 60's pickup spacing Warmoth maple neck with ebony fretboard Vintage Gotoh reverse tuners Tonerider pickups Nitrocellulose lacquer finish in surf green with a light tint top coat to simulate ageing. Light relic with plenty of good old lacquer checking. I'm waiting for the neck pickup cover to arrive but both covers will be fitted, at least temporarily, once I have them. It sounds fantastic but weighs a fair bit due to the steel rods in the neck and the vintage tuners. It's manageable though.

I finally sussed out Welcome to the Pleasuredome (there may have been some YouTube involved) so I'm enjoying playing that at the moment. I'm even doing the slap part and I've never done any slap before!

A lot of mark's emails get flagged as spam for some reason, worth checking your spam folder to see if they are all in there

Yes, that's them, thanks. I just can't bring myself to pay such a proportionately large amount for postage, it should cost about £1.50 or so as a letter. I've since been in touch with MPS and they will do me a custom size if I decide I really need it.

Anyone know where I can buy a good repro jazz bass decal that's period correct in the UK? I've bought one from MPS Guitar Restorations that looks fine but is a bit big as far as I can tell comparing with photo's. I've found another company in The Netherlands that seem to have the size correct but they want 14 euros to ship something that weighs nothing. edit: turns that out a licensed copy neck by Warmoth is a slightly different shape than a real Fender and that's part of the reason why the decal doesn't sit quite how it should. I'd still like to try another decal to see if it's a bit shorter.

Do they have the correct forearm contour? A P bass body I bought from a similar company (wasn't Northwest Guitars but can't remember who) had a distinct angled transition rather than a smooth curve that a proper fender body has.

no, you just did - look, it's up there on the screen for everyone to see🙄

on the ebay page for that bass there a link to another similar one but with 5 strings and a Mexican serial https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254946037074?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D5ec334c7f1374438b581c0dba317da60%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D164836123964%26itm%3D254946037074%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb%26brand%3DFender&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

Yes sorry, I thought there was always some indication of power amp rating on the front fascia but I have a brochure for the mk5 range and can see now that the AH150 is cased up just like this amp with no mention of any power rating, just the pre-amp type. Presumably it says something on the back?