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  1. There's no way to know what gauges are on it, so you can't judge what gauges to buy. Best start with a medium tension new set (.105-.45) and go from there by trial and error, adjusting gauges as necessary.
  2. 'lbs'? This is a UK forum 😃 Anyway, if you have back problems, removing a small proportion of the weight (which is all you'll be able to do) is not enough and your health is more important. I suggest either playing sitting, using a stand, a spike or a hip strap.
  3. Sorry to be pedantic, but tension, stiffness and 'how it feels' are confused with each other a lot. What you mean is that you lost 'tension' due to the shorter scale, so you are using large core strings to add 'stiffness', which makes them 'feel tighter' and reduces floppiness. Larger cores do not add tension. Generally it does though, larger cores create a stiffer string, which will have more 'inharmonicity' (harmonics more out of tune with the fundamental) and less sustain.
  4. Don't you mean Gruvgear? If lower back pain is the problem, spreading the bass weight across both shoulders won't reduce the load on your lower back, although it will still be healthier for you to halve the stress on one sholder and balance the weight on your spine. A lighter bass is a better idea, or use a stand, or sit, or use a hip-strap to put the weight on your hips. Back pain means you have to make a change, it's not worth risking back injury. Standard bass straps putting all that weight on one shoulder are clearly ridiculous if you think about it, we only accept it because we're used to it.
  5. The actual (scientific) tension is determined by the string mass, which is mostly determined by the gauge. So there's no substitute for a large gauge. However, if the string is made to be stiffer (stiffness is independent of, and completely different to, tension) it will be less floppy, and 'feel tighter' for the same tension. However, tone will suffer. A .150 will already be quite stiff due to its large gauge. So increasing gauge or increasing stiffness will make tone worse. I recommend playing more gently and trying to reduce gauge and tension to gain flexibility. A .150 on your 30.3" has 38lbs tension which is actually a common tension for a B string, it's not low tension. I'm assuming the .150 is an all-metal roundwound? If you need a high tension B you should use a 35"+ scale bass. Setup will make no difference to string tension, stiffness or floppiness.
  6. ADGCFBb ok. To recommend gauges we need to know what gauges you prefer for BEADGC.
  7. .135 is borderline undertensioned for A. I used to think a .130 or .135 was ok at A until Skip of Kalium encouraged me to try a .145, i did and it was better. These big strings have a lot of mass so need a little more tension than higher strings. Going between F and A, a change of 4 semitones, is difficult, you would need a compromise gauge that would be very tight at A and very loose at F, around .160. Be sure to use a taperwound string. By 'drop F' do you mean FEADGC or FCFBbEbAb? Tuning FAEADG would be much more practical if you need the F.
  8. Scale length is of course extremely important, if it gets particularly short no amount of build quality can compensate, due to string physics. I'm not saying 30" is too short though. Keep in mind that a shorter scale doesn't require as much tension, the same tension feels tighter because the string anchor points are closer and the typical vibrating length is shorter. So you don't need to increase gauge as much as you may initially think, or even at all, it may even be best to reduce gauge. Using the smallest practical gauge and lowest practical tension really helps as stiffness is a big problem.
  9. Not necessarily, as that assumes the idea has been thought up, tried and rejected already. Some ideas are genuinely new. In fact, all ideas came into being at some point and were not around forever. What you wrote can be used to discredit any idea, however good it is. Many people use this argument to discredit things they just don't like. I'm not sure, as those are still bent over a saddle, are not straight, and the witness point still involves the bending of a core to vibrate. Also, they have an extreme change in mass within the vibrating length which causes it's own problems.
  10. Ok. If you can mail order strings from Newtone or Kalium then you can also mail order single bass strings from somewhere in Europe. I have no doubt Newtone strings are very good, but i'm not sure they are similar to Kalium Strings. Someone may have recommended Newtone only because you wanted a custom gauge set, but you can design your own custom gauge sets and buy single strings if you want. You could use the D'Addario String Tension Pro website linked above to choose gauges with equal tensions.
  11. See https://www.talkbass.com/threads/announcing-the-ray-ross™-saddle-less-bass-bridge.1384830/ for an in-depth discussion. At first i was sceptical, but now see some potential advantages in this, although i also don't like having that last inch in the vibrating length. My post is here https://www.talkbass.com/threads/announcing-the-ray-ross™-saddle-less-bass-bridge.1384830/page-13#post-22549953 It doesn't solve any particularly obvious problem, but from the reports does seem to create improvements. Many improvements in instruments are of this nature. Some way of keeping a string straight at the saddle does seem intuitively to me to be preferable. Most of the bridge is low-profile, all raised parts are smooth and rounded, seems no worse than the average bridge for comfort, in fact better than some conventional bridges.
  12. BigRedX i partly agree, but 'balanced tension' is used to mean various things depending on who uses the phrase. For Kalium and D'addario this means 'equal scientific tensions'. Some mean 'equal perceived tensions'. Some others may not even use the word 'balanced' to mean 'equal', but to mean 'changes across the set in an optimum way'. gricko's mention of Kalium suggests they mean 'equal tensions'.
  13. If we're going to get silly, here's the lightest set, .009 - .028 https://kaliummusic.com/product/string-pack-3r646a6d/
  14. gricko, Is there any particular reason you chose Newtone? You can create equal tension sets using singles from any brand. What i love about D'Addario singles is that they each come in an airtight plastic envelope. Many brands leave their single strings exposed and only seal their sets, so singles are not as fresh. If you are looking for advice for choosing gauges for equal tensions i can help. If a brand doesn't publish tension data the rough rule derived from physics is multiply or divide gauge by 1.335 going from string to string. The rough rule suggests 60 80 105 140 or 55 75 100 135 or 50 70 95 125. 105 E 130 B are not equal tension.
  15. This depends on what gauges both sets are, obviously. If they are the same gauges then they will be similar tensions (although tension for a particular gauge does vary a little between brands and string lines). However even if the tensions are similar you will very probably need to tweak the setup in other ways: action and intonation.
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