PinkMohawk

Yep, you're absolutely right, that's a brainfart on my part, I've not had to do the cab link thing for a while now. Don't know why I assumed it'd be a series not parallel wiring to both cab jacks.

Ahh one day someone will take the bloody thing off my hands. But yeah, having two 2x12's would be plenty for most bands regardless of how enthusiastic the drummer is. Always annoyed me how they don't just label one of the speakons as a 'thru' and just leave them blank instead.

It's not ideal, really. My recommendation is to get shot of the 15 and pick up another 4 ohm cab. With two 4 ohm cabs, you'd be running them in series rather than parallel, all that means is that you'd go: 8ohm output - cab 1 - cab 2. The reason there's two speakons on the back of the cabs is so that you can use one as a passthrough to the next cab. Of course, you could always just buy my Ashdown 8x10 off of me...

Could be worth a punt for nostalgias sake, it'll remind me of the garbage combo I got as part of my Encore bass starter package from Argos all those years ago. This pedal does a great job of replicating the sound I got when I whacked the volume up to full. Really get that 'speaker about to tear itself out of its basket' sound.

It really does sound crap. Not sure what anyone involved with this was thinking. The only thing this pedal should have been was Ashdown putting a Hyperdrive circuit in the fancy new box. It just sounds like speakers farting out to me, which somehow they're not aware isn't what we're looking for out of a distortion.

Ehh, I'm not convinced, sounds like more of an excuse honestly. Secured with velcro straps not cable ties to prevent movement which would be the main source of issues with cables. And if you really need to pull a cable quickly, just disconnect the jacks from the sockets and jam a spare in there quickly, then you can pull the bad cable in your own time. Trying to pull one cable in a spaghetti sounds like a great way to take another three cables with it and really screw yourself.

I've noticed, especially with the shift towards modellers/silent stages, more and more bands, at least in metal, are moving towards all-in-one racks. An IEM rack, instrument and backing track racks too. Which does make sense, when you've got five guys, you can pretty easily move two big 10U+ racks with wheels, drums and instrument cases. Not having to haul cabs and heads does have a certain appeal too, and not even pedalboards for the bands who have their tracks set up with midi-switching to handle presets on their Helix's/Quad Cortex's. Just wish they'd learn to solder and tidy up the cable spaghetti they've all got going on in the backs of these racks.

Not even sure if this is the right place for this, so any mod who can think of somewhere this'd fit better, feel free to move it. Anyway, it's like the title says, I'm looking for old fire hose, in order to make some straps out of it. I'm a fan of making my own straps, and up until now, I've been using a big roll of nylon strap that I found somewhere. Recently, I found a video of Billy Sheehan making up one of his straps, and he does it in a relatively similar way, i.e. big strap, fixed length, direct mounted, but he also mentions in the video receiving some fire hose that he was going to try, and I thought I'd like to give that a go as well. So, yeah, does anyone know where I can get some?

I suppose it depends really. If you only use a little, which is all that's necessary, a good tug will separate it. If you use it like Velcro, you're going to need a pry bar.

Yeah, I think that board is about the same size as my old bands guitarists board, hated having to drag that thing out of the van and into the venue. For what it's worth, if you're finding velcro to keep failing to hold everything in place, have a look at switching to dual lock instead. It's a little more expensive, but the hold is so strong that you can get away with using a lot less. Or, in my case, use the same amount and need a pry bar to get pedals off of your board.

Good lord, is this board intended to make us uncomfortable? How is it that *everything* is sitting at random angles?

Yeah if you've got the gear and know-how, a total DIY would work.

I might be wrong, but looking at your board, I'm not totally sold on you being able to get everything pointed the right way around. If the power supply is good and small, or you even stack a pedal on top of it you'd be able to manage it, but if it's in the budget, I'd consider a new board, something that lets you put stuff on the underside, rather than the kind you've got now. Rockboard is what I use currently, and I've got zero complaints about it.

No trouble at all mate. I'm Derby based, so probably a bit further than ideal, but if you'd much rather them soldered, you'd be welcome to drive down and I could sort it for you. Anyway, yeah, spade connectors are all over the place, and you don't need a specific tool to do the actual crimping, just a pair of pliers to give them a good squeeze.

I back the Harley Bentons, I use one of the old ISO-1 PRO models, when they were blue not grey, and it's been rock solid for me. No noise issues (and I run a lot of gain so I'd notice them immediately), plenty of power, and a good price.

Dual lock all day every day. A little goes a long way, and a lot requires tools to take off, so yeah.

You're correct in what you'd need to do, though there may be a way to save yourself some money on having someone else do the soldering. Having a quick google, it looks like the three contacts on the Powercon socket will comfortably take crimped on spade connectors instead, so there wouldn't be a need to solder them. Something worth considering, since if the pedalboard is properly put together, your power supply shouldn't be putting any strain on the spade connectors, so no risk of them coming lose, especially if you give the spades a little crimp when they're on the sockets contacts. Other than that, yes, you've got it right, IEC to socket, Powercon lead to mains. And yes, those are the right ones that will let you connect and disconnect while live safely.

If you mod it to let more bass through, you're going to lose a lot of the character that makes a DS1 sound like a DS1. I used to run two signals, one to a guitar head and the other to a bass head, with the DS1 set to be as gritty and nasty as possible. Your best bet for a tone that keeps that character is using an LS2 or something similar to blend a clean signal with it.

Seems to me that the most important part of this system would be mounting it to the studs in the wall. Long as that's done properly, can't see how there'd be a problem with the system.

Pretty minimal, I'd imagine. White would be my preference, but if grey was all you had, it'd just uniformly darken the colour just a touch.

In that case, yeah, you'd need to strip it back then paint it with the solid colour. You'd need to do a solid primer colour beneath it too, make sure it comes out even as well, otherwise a light colour like this will more than likely still show the colour difference through it.

If you want to keep that kind of colour, I'd sand it back and go for a solid colour instead. Personal preference would be a dark black stain, but that's just me.

Nabbed a set of J pickups off of him, nice and easy to deal with, no messing around waiting for shipping, proper stand up bloke. Happy to deal with him again.

Does anyone happen to know off the top of their head, if it's possible to swap the buttons from the M4/ BM light tuning keys for the M6 large buttons? Alternatively, if it's possible to use Sperzel buttons in their place as well.