Bassdriver

I've seen his name mentioned on this thread previously but I have to give another mention to Roland Lumby at The Amp Clinic in Manchester. He's resurrected an Acoustic 370 I bought from another Basschatter, sold to me as being in full working order and ready to gig. Sadly the amp was in fact a total basket case but Roland has pulled out all his formidable stops and got it running sweetly again. In addition to replacing some missing transistors (??!) and doing a full service job and getting rid of the horrible crackling he has also had to refit the heat sink and chassis properly. This involved tapping the holes to suit modern day M6 screws when he had no American spec ones to hand. He’s also fitted new feet to the side and bottom and looked through his entire knob collection for replacements for a chrome rotary knob cap and EQ slider. It’s always a pleasure to visit Roland and Jules and you know your amp will be in good hands and definitely worth the drive from Scotland to deliver and collect poorly equipment. Anyone who refers to his customers amps as ‘his babies’ has got to be worth trusting with special bits of kit. Even his job sheets are worth reading for the humour value. I think he should compile a load of them into a book and publish it. I’m sure he’d sell lots. Anyone wanting to travel to see one of the few people left in the country who can properly diagnose and repair valve and s/s amps look on Facebook for Roland Lumby or message me here for more contact details.

Glad that's all sorted then. If anyone has difficulty just pm me here and I'll be able to send you the pdf directly.

Hmm, so I see. That's strange, it was working the other day. I have the PDF here. I'll see if I can attach it for anyone who might need it...

Try that :-)

Hmm, so I see. That's strange, it was working the other day. I have the PDF here. I'll see if I can attach it for anyone who might need it...

Ok, I found one here if anyone else is looking... http://www.britishaudioservice.com/schematics_2009/V-Type/V6.pdf

Hi all. My V6 is being repaired, revalved and serviced. We've found loads of rather dodgy looking wiring and would like to make sure everything's right before we put the cover back on. A proper schematic diagram would come in very handy but google has yet to be forthcoming. Any valve amp experts on here with one they could link us to or send through? That would be most appreciated.

I have a 180w Electric Blue 1x12 combo and a MAG 115 deep extension cab. I've never gigged with this rig but have used if for a few rehearsals with loud drummers, 4x12 equipped guitards and so on. I found the 12' combo got a bit lost by itself but when you add an extension and so lower the impedance the amp is seeing you find a lot more depth and body to the sound and there should be plenty of volume for pub gigs.

I have a Barefaced Vintage T which is just incredible. Lightweight, fantastic sound, anything from mellow to extremely aggressive and will handle just about any amp you put through it with ease. I've not tried any other Barefaced cabs but I think the next cab I buy will be one, either another Vintage if one comes up for sale or a Super 12 maybe...? I also have a pair of Vanderkely MNT1x12s which are really nice and a bit easier to fit into tight spaces than the vintage. They have a warmer, more chocolaty tone to them which I really like and are very light and easy to move. Never tried any of the other Berg/TKS/EBS/Aguilar stuff but I'm sure they're very nice, it all comes down to how you interpret the sound you get from them. As for the appearance of a cab, well, I guess that's a matter of opinion too. For me it's all about the sound and in that respect from my experience of them so far if ultimate portability/rig versatility combined with sufficient volume to keep up with your drummer is what you're looking for I reckon a couple of Barefaced 1x12s or 1x15s would be all you'll ever need.

[quote name='planer' timestamp='1438681784' post='2836290'] The fuse is still the right current rating, it's just that 'F' type foozes will blow faster once the current rating has been reached (or exceeded). A 'T' rated fuse will handle current fluctutations close to (or just beyond) the rating better than an 'F' type, that's all. If you ran your amp full bore, all the time, it might be an issue. I've got some T type, 3.15A 20mm fuses here, pm me your address and I'll send you a couple. [/quote] Thanks, that's a generous offer sir but as I have ordered some on Ebay for not very much money if feel it would only be greedy to make you send more. They'll be here on Thursday in time for my next gigs so all is well. Thanks