Dave Tipping

[quote name='FretNoMore' timestamp='1404306264' post='2491365'] [/quote] Drool!! So many nice pedals here. I've only had my empress compressor for a month or so but it's the best pedal I've ever bought. It's a 'you only notice it when it is turned off' pedal... but I don't think I'll ever play with it off again! How do you find the para Eq? A couple of venues we play have issues with certain frequencies I'm considering it for this purpose, I've been using the eq on the B3 for this purpose but I find it removes to much of the frequencies sounding the problem and it seems to suck too much bass. I don't mind the B3, but I've recently been switching it in and out of my chain live and loud at gigs and although probably too subtle for most ears I really don't like what it does to my sound even in bypass.

Based on that logic I've decided to go for the Empress! ...I know! I decided to draw the size of the two pedals onto a piece of paper and sat them on top of my amp, this is going to be a turn on and leave on pedal which will sit onto of my amp next to my wireless receiver thingy. The power and jack placement works way better for me on the Empress plus it's half the size of the MB unit!

How are you getting one with your Markbass Compressore? I'm going around the bend looking at compressors at the moment! I had decided upon the FEA unit, but just got an e-mail saying there is a 9-12month wait! I'm now stuck between the Empress and the Compressore. Thomann has the Markbass pedal at £140 at the mo which is very tempting!

ha ha ha .. I'm a moron! *nothing to see here* It does quite clearly say "patch select" .. not patch buttons!

Hello, I've been happy using various distortions and chorus effects on my B3 for over a year now, but I've just decided to muck about with some new patches. I've plugged it into my Mac downloaded the latest edit and share software.. downloaded the latest driver.. closed edit and share held down both the patch buttons and when i plug it in instead of saying "ready to update firmware" it just turns on? Any tips would be greatly received! Cheers DT

A few times ... 1st time the dep. made such an improvement to the band we sacked our drummer!

Superb communication and very fast postage

Where are you based? I have a fantastic BA115 for sale at £150. I'd say it'd be a better bet than either of those two.

.. It'll be the boomy unbraced / dampned cab you're trying to counteract ... on a serious note I used to dial the bass off and boost the treble / mid on my orange before I did the mod. Now I run a pretty flat eq.

When playing rock / punk covers I never used to use any compression at all ... since playing in a funk and soul band I find a bit of compression in my fx loop (after my amps pre-amp) helps keep the volume up when I'm playing fast runs softly and helps reduce the sound when I'm slapping and popping.

OFFT! Nice work man. Where did you get the bridge with mutes?

I started with an American P $600 from a shop in Vegas about 11 years ago and it's still the only bass I've ever owned. I had borrowed a fair few before then and fancy a MM at some point but in my 13 odd years of playing the bass I've not really thought about buying another bass. Pretty incredible considering the amount of dosh i've spent on amps and cabs in that time!

If it's anything like linking YT you will be limited to 3 per post ... unless you use photobucket or something? could be mong

The grille looks like it's screwed on from the side? .. so To remove the grille I would suggest removing the screws on the side of the cab. As far as bracing goes just buy some 25mm timber dowling (you can get this in wickes, b+q etc.) 1. Take the speaker out and using the part of the cab where the grille was you can measure the lenght the dowels need to be .. I'd measure it tight to the tolex and eye ball a little extra to allow for the thickness of the tolex. 2. Try sticking them inside the cab Prior to glueing. Once you have them sitting comfortably (and covering most of the largest blank panels of ply) I'd draw around the ends of them with a pencil and take them all out. 3. Stick a bit of wood glue on the cab where they are going to go and a bit on each end of each dowel as you are putting them in place. 4. Wait for the glue to dry! .. if you can and if you were doing them in two directions I would try sticking some of the dowels together also (it can only help). 5. Cut out squares of wadding the same size of the sides of your cab .. try putting them in, obviously you will need to cut a few slots for the dowels. Once you have them sitting against the panels take them out. 6. Spray the inside of the cab with adhesive .. I used carpet stuff. 7. Stick the wadding in .. re-connect the speaker, screw it back on, screw back on the speaker grille. 8. Try it out and smile accordingly.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' timestamp='1343342868' post='1749407']Maybe they tried it for the benefit of cutting costs and were happy with the sound [/quote] Exactly my thinking.

As I guessed, at least it's braced front to back (slightly) .. I would honestly consider sticking in a few dowels horizontally on the biggest unsupported areas and a few more front to back and would definitely stick some wadding in there. I simply cut the dowels very tight (just measuring off the cab .. marking with a pencil and sawing by hand) and glued them in with some wood glue. I was happy enough with my cab before however when a couple of cab builders tell you THE only reason you wouldn't brace and line a cab is purely down to cost saving (ok and possibly some weight saving) .. and you price what you need to be less than £30 and the additional weight is about a kilo it was a no brainer. I'm really glad I did the mod it feels more solid when you move it about and the sound improvement is significant. Before it sounded great in the house but at volume with a band I was constantly rolling a little bottom end off and felt the need to boost my mids to cut through. Now my eq is pretty level and my smile is as large as it was in the music shop with the OBC115