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pn_day

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Everything posted by pn_day

  1. Looks nice, and a great price. Must resist temptation! Good luck with the sale, Phil
  2. If you are moving to IEMs having a method for the musicians to create their own mix really helps take the load off the person doing the FoH sound. With a digital desk this is much more feasible - either with a phone app, or with a dedicated control surface (we use the Behringer P16 monitor mixers as we have an X32 desk).
  3. I'm also pleased with it. One key feature is that you can add the rota to your calendar and then see the updated rota without having to manually add entries. This is useful, particularly if the rota changes!
  4. Thank goodness for that. I was seriously wondering how long I could withstand temptation, particularly at the new lower price!
  5. *** Must resist! *** Good luck with sale -looks like an amazing piece of kit, and a lovely blend of old school with modern conveniences.
  6. pn_day

    Bassman666

    I have just purchased a rather nice GK combo amp (MB110) from Charlie. Amp was well packed, arrived swiftly, and was exactly as described. Top chap! Phil
  7. It may be easier to just change the strings on the bass that you already have. Change to flat wounds on the Yamaha, and then use the P pickup with tone rolled back slightly as others have said. Having said that, the JMJ Mustang is a lovely bass. I have 2 Yamahas and a Mustang - so in true basschat style, the right answer is the one that justifies another purchase Phil
  8. I have a Hohner Jack with the jazz style pickups. I found that the pickups themselves were fine - but ripped out the Hohner pre-amp and replaced with a passive VBT with push/pull for series mode and it is much better. So if you do get the Hohner Pro JJ, try the original pickups before swapping them out - they might work for you. Phil
  9. I believe some Japanese Fenders are medium-scale, but they seem to only crop up occasionally. There was one on basschat classifieds a couple of weeks ago - link below. Alternatively, if you are happy to go down to 30" short scale, the JMJ Mustang gets my vote. It sounds great, is easy to play, and is mass produced so easy to get. I held off for years, and finally got one a few months ago and see what all the fuss was about. Great bass, particularly when strung with the La Bella Mustang strings. I would recommend shielding it after purchase. Good luck, Phil
  10. Have you tried changing strings? Swapping from rounds to flats or tapes can give a different feel & sound without messing around with the original (or in my case, making it worse)! Also on most PJ basses I've had (except for a Japanese Yamaha BB2000 which was perfectly balanced between the pickups) the jazz pickup has to be set much closer to the strings in order to get any sort of parity of output with the P - which will naturally change the tone. I've usually then had to set the P pickup lower than 'ideal' to avoid string contact on the jazz PU - but that might be because I'm hamfisted and tend to dig in with my right hand when I get excited (i.e. when playing in a band rather than noodling at home). Apologies if these suggestions are painfully obvious - and you've already done them. I'm firmly in the camp of flats & tapes are great. Give me a couple of years and I'll be loudly extolling the virtues of rounds and half rounds Phil
  11. Nice. I have a 1979 BB2000 and it's a keeper! Enjoy the bass
  12. I finally took the plunge and purchased a (black) JMJ Mustang. Out of the box it was good, but not great. It felt good, but the E string never gave a consistent pitch - looking on an accurate tuner it was quite variable (a bit like a flabby 'B' string). In addition it was all rather noisy in my EMC test lab (also known as my study right next to the solar panel inverters). After shielding, and changing the strings from the factory long scale fenders to the La Bella 760F-MUS flats, it is even better. E string now gives consistent pitch, string to string balance is better, and there is no noise. I can see what all the fuss has been for the last few years - the JMJ Mustang is indeed a nice piece of kit. It might even be nicer to play than my 1970 Guild Starfire (although with slightly less character)! Cheers, Phil
  13. Bargain. If this was a fretless I'd be in trouble!
  14. If it was me I'd be tempted to rip it out and go passive (you could repurpose the boost switch as an S1 switch for combining the pickups in series. While you are in there check all the shielding and if necessary break out the copper tape to redo it. Phil
  15. If you've got some spare cash also check out the Ian Martin Allinson (IMA) patches - his synth ones were fun to play with, but I've never used them live.
  16. If you haven't bought the Cort yet, or if somebody else has, I would recommend looking for a Hohner B2 or Jack that has single coils, rather than the 'Select by EMG' humbuckers which lack clarity and top end. I have a later Jack that has the single coils and the pickups are much better than the humbuckers. Personally, I think I prefer the Hohner Jack (the one with the body) over the Hohner B2A for ergonomics. However, the classic cricket bat is a marvellous travel bass.
  17. Thanks to both of you. I've ordered some radius gauges to at least measure the radius of the neck, then I'll decide after getting an idea of the radius. And thanks @Beedster for sharing the hard-won lesson! Phil
  18. Dear all, Background I have a B2AFL (the factory fretless model). There are some markings on the fingerboard from previous use of round wounds, and a few nicks on the board as well. I think this might be the reason that the G-string develops a rather sitar-like resonance when the neck relief is low (I noticed it when I tried out tape wound strings, which didn't have enough tension to put much relief on the neck even with the truss rod loosened completely). For now I'm living with slightly more relief, and therefore using the old flats that came on the bass which have slightly higher more tension than I like. I believe from searching online that the fingerboard material might be ebanol. I've never done any neck sanding before. I was wondering about either just sanding down a touch to try and flatten off any high spots, or alternatively coating with CA glue and sanding that down - to try and fill in any low spots. Questions Do most people use a radius block for sanding a fretless fingerboard, or do you just use a long straight edge and do it by eye? Does anyone know what the radius of a 4-string Hohner B2A is? Is CA glue coating of an ebanol board possible or recommended? Many thanks for any tips you can offer. Phil Photos are attached to show the latest iteration - added glow in the dark stickers as some of the dots had worn away, swapped out the EMG Select humbuckers for some Warman Twin Locos, and swapped out the stock wiring for a VBT+SP harness from @KiOgon
  19. I've used Warman Twin Loco (hot rails style) pickups in a recent upgrade of an old Hohner B2AFL (fretless). The original EMG Select soap bars were very muddy. The twin rails have much more clarity, even when wired in series. I haven't used his P or J pickups, but would now consider it - particularly based on other positive comments.
  20. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  21. Thanks Franz. I'll see if it settles down after being left up to pitch for a few months - I gave up the last time I tried this after a couple of weeks!
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