Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

customstocker

Member
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

customstocker's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

3

Total Watts

  1. Does anyone on this forum own 1 of these cool basses ? I was wondering if the pickups (3 single coils ?) are 1/2 a standard musicman humbucker ? I mean, dimensions wise ? I can't find any info on-line regarding these pickups .
  2. the Wal uses alnico 5 ferrous bar magnets which , when inserted across all 4 pole pieces, something funny happens & a layer of distortion is in play...at least in a traditional single coil . I use neodymium magnets which have a clearer output & use 1 magnet per coil = 8 altogether. Iv'e been in touch with an electronics whizz from Portugal & between us, I think we have got pretty close & now have a 1 humbucker per string model making 3 types in total. There is nothing out there like a WAL though, it's a great piece of product design. But if it's the tone you are after.........
  3. Ive made the pickups but with different magnets
  4. you need to rip out the electronics & put an 8coil pickup inside
  5. wow, the Bass looks totally amazing, the Osmo gear is impressive to say the least. There is a German product which is very matt & used for base coats but even this stuff darkens the wood . I need to try this stuff myself. really interesting thread, Ive had about 10+ pages to catch up on as we have just got a proper internet connection.
  6. I mean if the bridge was sunk into the underside then it could have a sliding cover to hide it until it needed tuning. not sure if you would still require the bridge angle or whether it would allow the bridge to sit flat. I guess it depends on how high the bridge is whether or not there would be A. enough space for it to be sunk in & B. enough body thickness to allow the design to work without creating too much stress at this area By the way, I saw a nice fretless last year with a white Ebony fingerboard, this would sit well with what you & Mick have come up with which looks amazing by the way. I can build a pup for this when you have a cavity design in mind in either single coil or full humbucking mode
  7. what would be altered strength wise if the bridge was lowered into a routed cavity on the underside under a "patch box" which slid out for tuning ? this might relieve the angle of the strings going through to the bridge saddle on top. .
  8. i tried wing nuts, looked awful. here's the machine heads after heat treatment [attachment=224341:DSC_0065.JPG] & the jack output [attachment=224342:DSC_0052.JPG] 1 thing about this bass, the tone is really deep & I've got the action to the point where it's really nice to play, on The Greek's advice I changed the strings to the lightest gauge I could (30-85) which has allowed the neck, which is 30+ years old, to relax. From the horrible state it was in when I bought it, it's starting to get there. Just need to find some interesting industrial parts to finish it off
  9. thanks for the comment on the knobs, these are next but I want to use something as a basis, not just turn them from steel, I guess the rigidity of a material has an effect on the tone & the sustain , Iron just breaks if you try to bend it, unlike brass so there must be some effect on sound, after all, some bells are iron ! Interesting thought.
  10. I built a new Franken bass recently & wanted to use a cheap modern bridge that was chromed, I thought that if I could remove the chrome with a gas torch & patinate the brass? beneath, it might look interesting as the bass in question was to look weathered. I heated up the saddles first & saw a dimensional change as the thing distorted, let out a puff of gas & collapsed. when it cooled down It was just a blob of white crystal. ! has anyone else tried this ? what a load of rubbish !!!!!!! I had the idea for a while to build an industrial looking bridge from a lathe cog but the only ones I have are for my lathe for screw cutting & needed. I did have a massive cog from a mangle & have used it, best I could.[attachment=224302:DSC_0006.JPG][attachment=224303:DSC_0033.JPG][attachment=224304:DSC_0047.JPG] as you can see, the cog wasn't ideal as the internal holes cut the corners off. I am finally getting the hang of silver soldering though & got a couple of brass sections to fill the gaps. The saddles are made from a steel which has an addition of another metal to help the finishing & is heat blued, the brass has been patinated to roughly match the iron that the cog is made from with a Gunsmithing patina ( which stinks ) the saddle grooves in the base were cut on my mill, a bit deep actually, if I do another one like this I will just skim the surface. The worst bit on this project was machining down the back of the cog. Iron needs a very slow cut & the shape has probably helped to knacker the bearings on my lathe. All in all, though , quite pleased for a first attempt. The bass itself has an ash body which is quite small, the electronics are passive 1x V 1x T & the pup is one of mine, a split-p 4 coil humbucker with a 12 K ohm output. for more images of the bass you can find it here . http://www.herrickpickups.com/gallery-demos/builds-work-in-progress/ Thanks for looking
×
×
  • Create New...