Jakester

16 hours ago, cetera said:

Only just catching up here having been away for 5 weeks.

Terribly sad news

 

Ah, this is really sad. I missed this when it broke and only noticed the post yesterday evening.

I first had contact with Nick on here, when we did a convoluted trade involving one of my family members acting as courier - it all went fine and he was a gent to deal with. 

It then transpired I'd unknowingly met Nick (in his capacity as OHM) on many occasions - we used to work for the same firm, and first met playing cricket for that firm. It was only when Nick complained he'd broken his finger keeping wicket and might struggle playing his gig that evening that we made the connection!

I was then lucky enough to play drums with him on several occasions - highlights included winning the Bristol 'legal battle of the bands' (bands from local law firms, not an officially-sanctioned contest!) and then after I left the firm, being roped by Nick back into playing with a band comprised of partners at their annual conference. That involved a glitzy hotel in the City, full hired-in professional backline, and a room and food too. 

We'd spoken on-and-off about putting something else together for years but we'd never quite managed to get it to stick. I hadn't spoken to him for a while though and didn't realise he was unwell. Terribly sad for his family and friends - he'll be sadly missed.

Actually, looking further into it it's 'one effect at a time', rather than the Stomp 'create a patch', so would just be like putting a different stompbox on the board each time.

What I was hoping the Stomp could do would be to have electric bass patches e.g. 'normal', 'drive', 'synth', 'octave' etc but each one also have the same preamp, eq (as appropriate), parallel clean (switchable?) DB channel into the shared HPF and compressor then into the amp, so basically cutting down on all the other pedals. Seems like the HX One is a much smaller version of the HX FX.

Actually, having read the above, and looked into it a little more, I reckon a HX One would do the job perfectly as I wouldn’t be looking for the amp sims or IRs. 
 

Interesting…

<edit> actually, looks like you may not get the dual input control that you could get with the Stomp. 
 

Still, might be good to replace some of the separate effects after the Tonebone.

PM'd

Ah, decisions, decisions.

I have a pedalboard setup that I'm happy with, and that can just about cover most things I'm called to play. 

However, it's got quite a few pedals on it, some of which are only ever used once or twice a year. 

There's also the inevitable faff if a cable comes loose, or you get an unknown buzz etc etc. I'd idly been thinking about whether I could simplify everything by using a Stomp and setting up patches equivalent to the pedals I use now. So far, so straightforward?

Well. 

I also double on DB at the same gig, and sometimes during the same song. The songs that do use effects use chorus, or octave, or dirty synth sounds. 

Current setup as follows:

Tonebone OD -->  C4 --> Whammy Ricochet -> EHX Freeze -> SFX Micro Thumpinator --> Keely Bassist

I have a DMC Micro connected to the C4 to change the patches. 

I tend to use the OD on the Tonebone if needed, though I have some grindy patches on the C4; it also does a good chorus, octaver and synth (natch!) if needed. The Freeze is good for sustained pedaled notes where I'm not on the DB, and the Ricochet is useful if I'm using a different patch on the C4 and need to go octave up or down (and also can be fun of itself for fills etc).

What I'd probably need to do with a Stomp is set up two parallel paths using the L/R inputs; one with the effects etc for the electric bass, and one straight thru/or with EQ and HPF for the DB, and then combine them out to the amp (possibly with a compressor). 

Would a Stomp be able to do all of those things in a user-friendly package? I'm guessing the HPF would be able to be inserted anywhere (instead of where it fits on the pedalboard!), and I could use the DMC Micro to change patches as do now.

Or am I just looking for a shiny new toy and if it ain't broke, don't fix it?

Bought a Stanley Clarke CD from Mick - great communication, and arrived quickly fine. And it's a great CD too!

21 minutes ago, Newfoundfreedom said:

There's a guy local to me who had a great band. Then he refused to work with anyone who isn't vegan. 

 

He's now a solo act with an acoustic guitar. 

 

True story. 

Let’s hope no hide glue or bone was used in the construction of his guitar! 

3 hours ago, prowla said:

Just imagine rehearsals, or sitting in the van going to a gig.

I did wonder how they could actually coordinate rehearsals, as no-one will want to be tracked by 'the man' by using their phones, and presumably using powered speakers is out as a result of the effects of electromagnetic fields...

I think the prospects of "a gig" would seem pretty remote!

I found mine is very sensitive to any noise in the signal chain; I mean, I know how a compressor works and it is certainly way better than the TC Electronic one it replaced, but I was using more gain owing to a change in preamp pedal (it only has ‘cut’ eq, no boost) and over 12 o’clock on the Keeley gain it really magnified a *very* slight hiss.
 

Took me ages to figure out what it was, too 🙄

From the manual:

"4.4 Strobe mode

In Strobe mode, the difference between the correct (target) frequency and the actual detected frequency is displayed by twoi ndicators simultaneously: 1. Red LEDs to the left (pitch too low)or tot he right (pitch to high)of the center LED column 2. Rotating segments in the display. The closer the detected frequency is to the target frequency, the slower the rotation. Tune the string until the rotating pattern has come to a stop and only the middle column of green LED lights up."

You did read the manual, right? 😉

I see quite a few venue cancellations on the various FB pages - Somerset musicians, Bath musicians, Bristol musicians etc - you get the idea! 

Definitely saw at least one today:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/bristolmusic/posts/7337323739640067/

Thankfully managed to get my hands on an Xvive U4 wireless IEM from a friend which seems to be doing the job!

3 hours ago, stewblack said:

I've used a Lekato wireless bug system for iems and it was absolutely fine.

Bit of jiggery-pokery to connect it up but no reason at all not to use it

Thanks Stew - fingers crossed!

Totally random question - I’m doing a musical and the band can’t hear the cast vocals.
 

The venue doesn’t appear to have any wired in throughputs from the tech booth to backstage and it’s too far for cables (and for a few nights). 

The digital desk has a load of unused aux outs and I presume we could get a feed of vocals out if needed. 

One idea was to use a wireless IEM system to get the aux out to a monitor backstage at v low volume, but we have no budget and I don’t have a system. 
 

I was wondering whether I could use my wireless bass system to send the signal instead. Is there any reason not to use it (range notwithstanding)? I mean frequency wise etc. 

Assume I have all the right cables to convert jacks to XLRs etc. 

5 hours ago, JoeEvans said:

I don't use any compression so no the case for me... Presumably some combination of technique, strings, bass and pickup/mic...

Sorry, that was directed at Owen - I misread his first post and thought he said he was using compression, but he said he's going to experiment with some compression. 

1 minute ago, Staggering on said:

 

Me too, a lot louder.

Realist Lifeline on my Shen SB100.

 

Thirded. 
 

Could it be your compression is too heavy and it’s squashing the arco much more than the pizz?

Thanks.

Worth knowing a dedicated spray place could add a tinted poly. 

I suspect it's a 2K as the previous owner told me it was clear coated by a car spray place.

Some good advice there, thanks v much. 

Thanks - I only ask about the Osmo as I have some knocking around that would give the perfect tint. Sounds like you’ve prevented a very messy mistake though, thank you!

So, say someone has just acquired something that had been professionally finished in a polyurethane clear coat which didn't match something else which has aged due to a nitrocellulose clear coat. 

Short of stripping off the poly in its entirety, tinting and then refinishing (either in poly or nitro) is there any way of 'tinting' the poly finish?

For example, is it possible to shoot a tinted poly clear coat on top? (I know poly coats stay separate when cured, unlike nitro ones which 'blend' into one another). Does such a product exist?

I know you can get tinted nitro clear coat for 'aging' guitars - is there a poly equivalent? Could I just spray tinted nitro on top of the poly (taking all necessary safety precautions of course)?

Could I just wipe on something like a tinted Osmo oil? Would that cure on top of poly?

Rehearsals sound like they'd be a laugh...

Hurrah! Good news, everybody!

As @Matt P suggested, it seems there is a captive nut on the underside, and on closer investigation for some reason the screw had simply come undone to the point it could pull out of the nut. 
 

Thankfully it would still thread and so all it needed was screwing back into place, this time with a judicious application of Loctite. Hopefully that will hold it!  Also did the other one at the same time. Fingers crossed!

On 23/01/2024 at 13:40, Matt P said:

I have the clarke version of the amazon one that @SamIAm has, I managed to ruin the bearings in the wheels but that was down to the thick mud i dragged it through at a festival (which i didn;t clean out properly afterwards)  the main frame and axles are fine, I bought some replacement wheels off eBay and it's as good as new.

 

in normal use i've not had any issues with mine at all.

 

Matt

 

Likewise, I have one of these - branded VonHaus or something, was about £15. 
 

I can manage combo amp + extension cab , gear bag, pedals all on it (I use a bungee around the axle) so it can make it one trip from the car (if I’m not playing DB!). 

I have no need for this whatsoever. I want it so much though!

4 hours ago, Matt P said:

this might not be a wood screw at all, if it's a fine thread it might be threading into a metal insert / tee nut, this is common for strap handles.

 

a pic of the screw will show this, if it has a flat end rather than a point then it would suggest that it's a machine screw for an insert. 

 

the nut might not be in place but as i'ts likely to be steel it will be stuck to the speaker magnet.

 

I've had a fair few cabs apart and i've never come across a strap handle that wasn't held on with machine screws and Tee nuts.

 

Matt

Thanks  for the heads up - haven’t had a chance to check yet but will do. 

Thanks - I have some dowels so should be reasonably straightforward (he says...).

Watch in a week or so for a CMD121P going cheap because the handle spontaneously caught fire..!