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Haha well fortunately my dad was a luthier and still got all the gear and a small workshop available for use 🙌 Gonna be a fair bit of work, gotta make the router templates, router the new cavity for the bridge, extend the P cavity for the neck and then make the scratch plate. Got a long list of other bits to sort like fixing a few dings, sorting a loose screw on the neck and strap lock where it’s loose. Also wanna take some of the gloss out of the finish. May be a few evenings before I get to play it 🥲

Lovely looking bass! Now rip the sleeves off your denim jacket and get shredding

P.S. A guitarist friend of mine played in a band where the bassist had a Ric. 18 months or so ago, I said to the guitarist friend “Rickenbackers look weird and sound rubbish.” Somehow I now own one (well not that much of mystery - I walked into Guitar Guitar with a credit card and bought it). I think it looks great and sounds great. Maybe this thread is about 18 months too late for me to fully participate.😀

I had the lefty version, very, very nice bass. I'd say that's a decent price too, everywhere else seems to want a lot closer to £1000 for MIJ basses these days. Mine had a solid neck but not too thick and chunky, decent hardware, great clarity of sound. I'd snap that up if I were right handed with £825 to spend on a p bass.

I ran an old Precision bass for years, this went through several pickup configurations and arguably the best was when I just wired a 1/4 Pounder pickup straight into the output jack. Not pots, just pure signal; this fed a POD (and later a BDDI), then into the effects return of whatever amp I was using. Lovely. End of the day, I always play with everything open; this just takes it a step further. We obsess too much - just let the bass ring and let your outboard kit and amp do what they're supposed to do; shape and amplify.

Somebody got G&L headstock and Rickenbackers in fairly early on in the thread (the same person if memory serves correctly - you should come round to mine for a cup of tea and an ogle at my bass wall). Headless basses followed shortly after. I had to read through to this page (page 5 before) “lined fretless” appeared. So I now have a full house of “hated”, “disliked” or “just looks weird” basses. 😀. Bingo And for extra bingo wings effect “dots in the same position on a fretless as they are on fretted” has also made an appearance. But that’s on the same bass as my lined fretless.

The big problem with UK-centric radio is the inconsistency; I detest with the whole BBC playlist model of music-for-the-masses thing, where I simply wouldn't hear one song of merit in a day of output. Add into this commercial radio and, well, no. Services like TuneIn and myTuner open the world to you musically. My go to station is W-EQX, an alternative rock station that broadcasts from Manchester, Vermont. It's just a wonderful thing. No song repeats, great music. https://www.weqx.com/

Gold On The Ceiling - Black Keys

Hi all! This is my first post, so if it's at the wrong place, please let me know) I'm trying to get my older Fender Boxer bass (P/J setup) restored to the closest to the 'factory settings' possible. I bought it used in 2022' and it was in rough conditions. I still wanted it anyway because I like to restore things from time to time. It took me some time, and analysis from a local luthier, to find out that its electronics were all messed up. The pickups were original at least, so it wouldn't be hard to make it sound the way Fender intended it to, at least that was my first thought. But I am having a hard time in this restoration. The closest to a wiring diagram that I found around the web is a PDF book written in german (and I'm utterly incompetent at reading german, so I resorted to Google for some help) - it presents what looks like a Fender PJ-555 (one of the product codes for it) which matches the Made in Japan Boxer. However the diagram offered seems wrong. It doesn't even mention the pickup selector switch. (sigh!) I tried different forums and many places around the Web with not very reliable results. Does anyone here happen to have a true and reliable schematics for the Boxer Bass to share? Does someone remember important info about its electronics? All I could find via YouTube reviews is: - the Boxer PJ contains a pickup selector Switch (P/P+J blend/J) and is wired in Series (I mean, not only the split coils from the P are in Series. The route from P to J pickup also is - apparently to give it even more sound pressure and output?). If a pickup volume knob is dropped to zero, the bass is muted altogether no matter what the other volume cap setting is. (and I read somewhere that this is another outcome of Series wiring). Its tone pot is a TBX control pot, not a conventional one. Total 3 pots: V / V / T (with TBX) As for volume cap values, I've read them both are 250 Kohm and them both are 500 Kohm. I am not sure who is right among these two but I am not too concerned because as far as I know any of these values can be fine and are a matter of taste. As for other pieces, capacitors, I really don't know what are the right ones and where they should be connected to. So, if anyone has reliable info to share, or a nice schematics, I appreciate a lot. I apologize if my english is not optimal. It is not my first language. Thanks in advance

What can I say? I like ‘em thicc

If ya happy with 1/4" Jack Out, SH Zoom B1 Four (or B1on) @ £50ish Tuner, 50 Patches of upto 5 Effects, Amp/Cab Sims, 30 Sec Looper, Drum Machine... and ToneLib to Edit the patches. If you just want the bassics!.. get a SH Behringer BDI21. SansAmp-a-like with DI XLR out... £25ish

Alternatively, just get a Zoom MS-60B (not a Plus) and set it up to cycle between patches. Use the Tonelib Zoom editor to set up the patches.

https://yoshblog.com/en/review/b2-four/ From looking over the various reviews of the B2 Four, buyers seem to be very happy with it. There's a very detailed 4* review at Amazon.com that's worth looking at - https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0BW6BSPLV/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=four_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1#reviews-filter-bar

I'm not 100% on this as I've not had the box apart but I think the 15 is a de-rated Eminence Delta-Pro. It seems something of an odd spec with such a low thermal rating but a heavy-duty cast frame.. I'll be honest, I've never heard it complain but that may well be that I'm much closer and on axis with the more efficient 410HE. I don't have big lows in my sound either so maybe that and not running silly loud helps keep cone movement and consequential risk of complaint down.

This bass is uber rare and only available in Japan back then. I WOULD LOVE THIS BASS. https://www.fenderfever.com/bass/fender-jb-19992002---sunburst

It does look good! A haze machine is an excellent investment, just presents lighting nicely. I’ve been operating the lighting desk for a local theatre company this week and I’ve had a REALLY big one to play with.

Haven't played with a 5-piece since 2010 except for one dep gig with them in 2016, just consulted photos and I was second row on the drummer's right, one side or the other of the rhythm guitarist. Although now my smart-alec answer would be "I don't, I sit down".

Nice one! My first gig with the band was at Venue 23, we even got use of the plush headliner room at the back even though we were second from top of the bill 😂

have fun with the router you're buying tomorrow!

Sign of the Times is that rare thing, a double album that works and isn't just 3 or 4 good songs and a load of padding out. It was the peak of his recording output methinks.