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  2. Processed. Venom
  3. I couldn't find this in the thread but for me this is a cracker of a cover. The Stones version I can take or leave but Beverley Knights makes me smile. What a voice and the way it builds and keeps on building!
  4. It’s not really drumming. Just a bass drum pedal. So I’m only half as hard 😅
  5. Probably THE best wireless on the market imo. This one was my main until the + came out and it’s just been my spare which tbh I don’t need. Amazing bit of kit, fully working and comes with new charger cable. No box but will be securely packaged up. U.K. postage included or I’ll be down at Brighton Guitar Show on Sat so can bring it with me.
  6. Thanks for the help! I'd emailed the company and they replied to say that it's not compatible with bass (and they've since added a not on the description). Not saying you're wrong at all but strange they didn't make the same observation, maybe I'll email them again with what you've said!
  7. Put magnets instead as the lifting hole is already there.
  8. Markbass Travellor 1 x 15, 400 watt, 8ohm cab. In great condition. Hardly gigged. £250.00 Collection only or can meet within reasonable distance.
  9. The neck is narrowish near the headstock. Bit jazz bass style. Yes, great tonal options and punchy.
  10. A Stratocaster neck at the octave is 52mm wide and a Precision is 56mm wide, so according to the overlap I see on the photo, it will work for both with the progressive radius height.
  11. Hello, do you still have it and would you ship it to the US? Thanks
  12. I have the exact 2 cabs ( 500w versions). i stack them upright ( I put extra feet on the sides) and that places the head at the perfect height. They are great and really do move some air with an ABM500 running into them ( other 500 watt amp’s are available) ✌️
  13. Hey all Since I have a fully working Wal-ish Mark 2 bass after all my YouTube adventures, I’m selling off the Mark 1 Wal-ish bass. Well, most of it, since I’ve used the neck somewhere else for a project. So I guess there are 2 ways to do this. The first way is I sell everything here as a unit, and someone gets a bargain for the loaded body. Stick a neck and strings on, you’re good to go. A fretless neck would be ideal for this. The second way is that folks want different bits of it and I part it out as people ask for them. I’d update the thread as we go, in that case. I don’t mind which way it sorts itself out. The body is an alder MIM Fender Precision Bass with a custom black pickguard. Fully loaded with all parts, it weighs 3.17kg. Unloaded of the parts apart from the pick guard, it weighs 2.52kg. The loaded body has the Turner SPSC multicoil pickups with parallel, single coil, and series switching for both pickups. These are hooked up to the newest Lusithand Double NFP Preamp Mark 2 and loaded with the Lusithand Knobs. The pickups are placed where Wal Mk1 pickups sit. These bridge is an aluminium Hipshot A bridge, and the body has a battery box and Dunlop Straplocks. These are of course all premium parts. Cost for the fully loaded body - £469. Shipping is additional to this. This is a great deal for someone, the cost of parts and work to get something like this is obviously much higher. ————— The other way is for the individual parts to be sold off as folks ask for them. This will mean the pickups need rewired to the switches etc as they don’t all come out whole. 1. Turner SPSC multicoil pickups with switches - details at https://reverb.com/uk/item/50385599-turner-pickups-multicoil-4-string-mc4-n-spsc. These will cost you £310 + shipping + import fees from USA for you to buy a set presently. £229 2. Lusithand Double NFP Preamp, Mark 2. This is the newest version with all the latest features like the attack switch. The knobs will come as part of the preamp if desired. Details at https://lusithanddevices.com/product/double-nfp/. New with knobs, it is £220. To you as individual part, £149. 3. Hipshot A bridge in Aluminium. This allows string through bridge stringing if wanted (not used on this build here though). £49 4. Heavily customised Fender MIM Precision Bass body in Electron Blue with custom pickguard, Dunlop straplocks, battery box, and side jack. Some light scratches as photographed. £99 Shipping is additional to all prices. Pete
  14. Krafty Cheese — The Residents
  15. Also check if the ring and tip are not reversed on your stereo jack (looks like a cheap model).
  16. Bought an amp of Gareth, Sorted quick and kept me informed No issues! Happy to do business
  17. Sold a pedal to Osiris. All good and easy to deal with. My pleasure
  18. Unsolder that red wire for the moment as it's the power (tension) for the LED, so not really mandatory to check the circuit. Clean these solders as they have a lot of tin. 😉 And try again as the red LED should only turn on in active mode when wired correctly. If it's working without the LED shining as it's not powered, just take a multimeter and check where the power is located and that'll be it.
  19. What a bass here.... looks amaizing,I bet sounds fantastic. 🤩
  20. Today
  21. Stink-foot - Zappa
  22. Congratulations on scoring a lovely bass! Y'know, sometimes one certain bass just fits you like a glove. Enjoy!
  23. That actually looks pretty low to me! I generally set my basses up at 7/64 (2.77 mm) on the E string to 5/64 (2 mm) on the G. Others like it lower, but any lower than that for me and I'm liable to start getting buzzing and rattling on the frets. You'll experience this effect more so on a 30" short scale bass like the Junior Jet, because the same string gauge will give you lower tension, and hence 'looser' feeling strings than at 34", so they'll vibrate in a wider arc and be more prone to hitting the frets. There are a few options to compensate: 1) Use heavier gauge strings to get higher tension. 2) Play more gently. 3) Set your action higher. I play mostly short scale basses, I'll never be a gentle player and I don't like heavier gauge strings, so I use slightly higher action and problem sorted. Regarding weather related neck changes, once I've settled on a set of strings, then I find I really only have to set height and intonation once, because after that, all the heat/cold/humidity changes are subsequently doing is either making the neck bow a bit forward or a bit back. Effectively this means the truss rod just needs to be tweaked a touch to compensate and put the neck back to where it started, then the action and intonation sorts itself out again. You shouldn't usually need to go through the full rigmarole of setting saddle height and intonation every time unless you change to different strings with different gauge and/or tension. Otherwise, if it's just neck movement from changing weather then probably about a 1/4 turn truss rod tweak should be all you need to rectify it.
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